Wednesday, October 14, 2015

The Wine That Started It All: Paul Weltner - the Michael Jordan of Winemakers

People forget that not only was Michael Jordan an offensive force the likes we had never seen he also
was a defensive force to the tune of 9 All-NBA Defensive 1st Team selections. But people tend to gloss over the defensive part because he was so awesome offensively. Paul Weltner is my Michael Jordan in the Franken. He makes the best Sylvaner on Earth in my opinion and he makes one of the best Rieslings as well. And we sell lots of his Sylvaner and Rieslings but Paul makes so much awesome wine that some tend to get passed over and they shouldn't. Like Michael Jordan's defense.

In this case he he also happens to make the best dry and off dry Schuerebes in the game.I don't really like sweet Schuerebe anymore. It loses its focus and precision when it becomes too sweet. But off dry and dry is where it gets to really shine and in Paul's hands it does. The first wine I ever tasted from Paul was a Schuerebe (I knew I could not bring it in through 3 tier so I decided to start my own company) so it also has sentimental value as well. Good Schue some people like to compare to Sauvignon Blanc but I think that is damning it with faint praise to be honest. Paul's are unmistakably Schuerebe but they also have a racy Riesling-esque side to them as well that makes them so good and inviting. They are as serious as Schuerebe can get without it becoming a caricature of itself, like so many can. Maybe that's where it is similar to Sauvignon Blanc, in that it can easily veer into wine caricature territory pretty quickly.

Many of the Fass Selections clients who buy Weltner are winemakers. Why?  Because he is one of the most talented winemakers in Germany and they enjoy tasting the best Sylvaners n the world. The Scheurebes are equally impressive.

Up first is the 2014 Rodelsee Schuerebe Feinherb which is a ridiculous steal at $19.99 per bottle on the 4-pack. The 2013 was sourced from Iphofen, so this is a bit different. A bit wilder than the 2013 aromatically with more feral/funky/blackberry/sage aromas but the palate shows how strong 2014 was in Franken. Franken was by far the best region in Germany in 2014 and this palate is a thrilling reminder why. It has unbelievably vivid fruit. Blackberry and grapefruit together in harmony is something I don't say much but then again I don't offer Schuerebe except once a year. If that. Depth, juiciness and so much mineral. This is almost too good for $20, but it does come in a Bocksbeuetel so I might as well keep the price low as a "hassle" discount. This is a wine to buy by the case. You will be the coolest kid at your storage facility if you get a case of Bocksbeuetels shipped to you. This is what I will grab for this spring and summer more than any other wine. It is spring/summer in a bottle. 2014 is the best one yet. And the price has remained the same.

Up next is the 2013 Paul Weltner Rodelsee Schweinleite Schuerebe Trocken which can be had for $24.99 a bottle on the 4-pack. I don't have much at all and this might have to be allocated. Yes allocated Schuerebe! Let the good times roll. But I don't have much and it is so good that I want to offer it to all the die hard Weltner heads out there. For me this is the finest dry Schuerebe Germany has to offer. Paul manages to make this as refined as any Schuerebe out there. Noble aromas of blackberry, sage, mineral and pink grapefruit. The aromas on this particular Schuerebe are utterly profound. It has the Weltner restraint side by side with the kinky Schuerebe somewhat reigned in. It's utterly brilliant. The palate is a masterclass in taming the wild side of Schuerebe yet also being incredibly sleek and refined. Concentrated and fresh with such insane purity and depth. What a wine.

2014 Paul Weltner Rodelsee Schuerebe Feinherb - $21.99 ($79.96 4-pack)

2013 Paul Weltner Rodelsee Schweinleite Schuerebe Trocken - $26.99 ($99.96 4-pack) (LIMITED/ALLOCATED)

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