2 Wines from the Producer the Top Burgundy Critic Cellars: Billard-Gonnet

"I have said this before but it bears repeating: Philippe Billard runs what is one of the most under-rated domaines in the entire Côte de Beaune. The wines are old school but not especially rustic or austere and they are unapologetically built for long-term aging. I am often asked exactly which domaines do I put in my personal cellar; well, Billard is one of them." - Alan Meadows, Burghound

I just recently opened a bottle of the 2012 Billard Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres VV for
one reason. When I had the '13 at the estate in March it was so great that I could have sworn it was as good as the 2012. And what do you know. I was right. The 12 and 13 of this cuvee are qualitatively equal but different in regards to vintage character. It hailed in Pommard in 2013 but what was under that hail after careful sorting was absolutely killer fruit. Just as 2011 in Volnay has hail but then it turned out it was a legendary vintage for Volnay after careful sorting of affected berries. The top 13's of which this and the other wine in the offer today are, will age very well. Combine that with a long aging appellation like Pommard and a long aging producer like Billard Gonnet and you have a recipe for epic, value-driven (his pricing always remains fair despite a slight nudge up because of all the hail) top 1er Cru's  from a terrific AOC.

The 2013 Billard-Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres can be had for $42.99 on a 4 pack.  This is as old school and classic as Pommard and Burgundy gets. Think if Giuseppe Mascarello meets Pommard and then you can start to wrap your head around Billard-Gonnet.  Although not one of the more renowned sites in Pommard, probably due to that it only has 4 owners, this version is absolutely killer and poured right before the Rugiens in Philippe's cellar.  Deep, animal, mineral nose that wallops your right out of the glass. Intense and ripe, with tremendous high acidity and power like you cannot imagine. This is a very serious and ageworthy wine. Hard to taste at this stage and drink but oh so good. It leaves an impact on your palate like nothing else. There is a Tolkien like minerality here. HUGE grip and tannins. Red fruits. Huge grip. This should only be drunk young for science's sake over 3-4 days. This will age for 25-30 years
Below is the big Billard Gonnet fan Allen Meadow's note and calls it the best wine in the cellar for 2013. And as good as the 12.

"An expressive nose exhibits essence of red raspberry, cherry and earth scents that combine beautifully with rich, delicious and intense middle weight flavors that deliver excellent length and solid depth. The old vines are very much in evidence as the sap completely coats the palate and buffers the tannins on the ever-so-softly rustic finish. This powerful effort will need at least a decade of cellar time." - 90-92 BH

I also have a stunning value and somewhat more famous vineyard on offer today as well.  That is the 2013 Billard-Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru "Pezerolles." I'll sell this every year I can as I love it. I've sold the 10, 11 and 12 I believe and know we can add the 13 to that list. I love Pezerolles. So much.And for $39.99 on a 4-pack that is almost too good to be true. It is one the more famous 1er Cru's in Pommard and rightfully so. It is a clay/calcareous soil give the wine it's very deep almost black/red color. Even though this is a wine of immense proportions it can be approached young if one wants with a 3-4 hour decant but really you should not look at it for at least 5-8 years. Huge cherry kiss nose. Loamy minerals as well. Almost an umami like gravel aroma. Terrific. Elegant yet very, very young.  Minerality on this is huge. Sappy. Mouth coating. Dense.  There is a sense of great balance, amplitude and serenity. As impressive a Pommard as you can find for $40 a bottle. Actually as impressive a bottle of wine for $40 you can find in the world today. Who says there are no values in Burgundy? Oh that's right. Everybody except us here at Fass Selections. Pictured is a 1990 Pezerolles that blew my mind that Phillipe opened.

As I noted, these are the best Burgundies for aging in my book. Now let me make another bold statement. They also need more time in the bottle than any Burgundy I have ever tasted. The wait is worth it. 25-30 years ago most Burgundies were like this and not all fruit forward like today. You could not drink them on release. Today's Burgs can be drunk upon release and are usually finished before Billard-Gonet's have started to become drinkable. The shift in style is significant for sure and happened also in Piedmont for Barolo and Barbaresco. People just cannot wait anymore. Infanticide is common, so winemakers adjusted and Burgs are different.

2013 Billard Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru "Chaponnieres - Vieilles Vignes" - $44.99 ($171.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)

2013 Billard Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru  "Pezerolles" - $42.99 

($159.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)