Friday, May 27, 2016

The Rhone AOC of Kings - Hermitage - Usually Starts at $60, Today, a Stunning Artisinal Producer for Under $42

I will never forget how I got introduced to Michelle Luyton's beautiful Hermitages. It was a crisp day
in Tain l'Hermitage at the Salon des Vins and I was sulking. I had just tasted the brilliant Cornas of Guillhaume Gilles and was bummed to find out he was represented by Neal Rosenthal. Oh well, you can't win them all.  I then asked Guillhaume who he thought the best talent in the room was and he immediately pointed to Michele Luyton; I headed over there in a flash. Michelle Luyton, is an absolute wonder. One of those people you meet, that charms you with her wit and warmth instantly. She was very humble in saying her English was not good, but it was fantastic. She was passionate and enthusiastic and most importantly the wines she makes are absolutely stunning and a wonderful entry into the mostly super high-priced world of Hermitage.  While the Luytons have been planting grapes for 25 years, this is only their fifth and sixth years bottling wines under their name; they have little name recognition in France and hence the wines are just incredibly cheap (although the whites are starting to get popular among the French). Even for Fass Selections, this is an incredible steal.

But the 2013 Luyton Hermitage Rouge can be had for $44.99 a 3-pack today and it is glorious. It's in the mold of '11 with all that beautiful pure fruit, but a bit edgier with higher acidity and more tannin. I think of the trio '11' '12, '13 this will age the longest. Complex, chewy, meaty, deep and rugged like an old school Hermitage.  Yet, Michele Luyton also gets a stunning elegance and finesse to her Hermitage in this wonderful 2013 and yet it stays bloody, gamey, floral and meaty as well. There is such purity and terrific drinkability. There is great freshness here and while not being a massive wine, it's sheer purity is the star here. No sacrifice of structure at all as this will last 10-15 years easy.  It is delicate yet also gives off the vibe that this is a product of the earth. The '13 is a tremendous wine that is the rare Hermitage that can be drunk now and for the next 20 years. If there is ever a Hermitage to buy a case of this is it. So I have special case pricing on the red today (and white) for $41.99 a bottle on a twelve bottle case. For the sole reason as that is an insane price and that this should be around $65-$70 and you can drink it now and over 20 years.

I used to hate most Northern Rhone Whites.  The climate made the grapes overripe and they were mostly too much.  Granted there were some incredible wines that shed their excessive opulence over time and matured into stunning wines but it's hard to sell wines that need 15 years of cellar age.  I've been fortunate to find a group of Rhone whites that I call the "New Northern Rhone Whites."  Somehow, the growers have made wines that have balancing acidity that makes them as wonderful young as they can be with age.  Today, I'm thrilled to sell one of the standard bearers, the Luyton 2014 Hermitage  Blanc, for as little as $44.99 on a 3-pack and $41.99 on a twelve bottle case. This is one of my personal favorite wines that I import.  When White Hermitage is on it, can be as profound as top end whites from anywhere. And Michelle Luyton's is sensational. 100% Marsanne from very deep granite soils. Hermitage is barren and looks like it is impossible to grow grapes on this enormous hill. But they do and it can be wonderful. 2014 is a finesse-drive, high acid vintage for Northern Rhone whites and Michelle's is a masterpiece. It is almost sold out in France and I have secured the last few cases.  This wine is very popular in France and sells out very quickly. I snoozed and lost out on the 12!  But the 2014 I am very much awake for and it is terrific wine. White Rhone and specifically Hermitage Blanc is not really a wine about acidity except in 2014 and this wine has impressive acidity, and one reason I love Michelle's is because the acidity is pitch perfect (in '11, '12 and '13) for all the great material.  So clean, so fresh and so minerally. Waxy nose as well, but very restrained yet detailed. This wine shows tremendous complexity when young with even more acidity than the 2013 and that wine had beguiling freshness, this one is even better. Terrific long finish and great sap and density. Will drink well for 1-2 years then close down for around 10 and then re-emerge for 5 or so. That funky weird White Hermitage aging curve. This has a zen like serene quality about it that only great wine from great terroir has.

The thing I love the most about Michelle Luyton's wines is their delicacy and finesse without sacrificing the significant and unique character of what Hermitage is. These are still packed but it is all on a silky thread of spider silk rather than a big, juicy rope like some other Hermitages. You also can enjoy this wine young, her red that is, while you can enjoy the white young, I find it really needs time and I believe will significantly improve over 10-20 years. I'm not really sure and neither is Michelle but the white, out of the both, seems like the long distance runner here. I find if you give each wine a two hour decant you are in business and I have found the Hermitage Blanc to vastly improve over 2-3 days with just a cork in it and in the fridge. That bodes well for its future. I'll admit I have no 11 or 12 Luyton Hermitage Rouge for myself as it was so damn tasty young that I drank it all. The '11 is in a great place now. The '12 was a bit closed when I tasted in Tain l'Hermitage this past February.

I just noticed Jeb Dunnuck has tasted the '11, of which I think the '13 is cut from the same cloth. He gave it a 91. Below is the review.

"Luyton's 2011 Hermtiage is a stunner. Exhibiting classic Northern Rhone minerality in its sweet black cherry, blackberry, licorice, peppery spice and wild herbs, it's medium-bodied, classically styled and nicely concentrated on the palate, with vibrant acidity, beautiful purity and a focused, chiseled feel. While no blockbuster, I love it for its purity, classic feel and sheer drinkability. Enjoy it anytime over the coming decade. This is a serious wine from newcomer Michele Luyton, and it's well worth your money. This estate has been growing grapes for close to 25 years, but the 2011 is only their third vintage bottling their own wine." - 91 pts, Jeb Dunnuck, WA

2013 Luyton Hermitage Rouge - $47.99 
($134.97 3-pack, $503.88 12 bottle case) (LIMITED)

2014 Luyton Hermitage Blanc - $47.99 ($134.97 3-pack) 
($134.97 3-pack, $503.88 12 bottle case) (LIMITED)

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