I think that Niklas Welter might be the greatest red wine talent in Germany that no one knows about. It's because his estate, Spater-Veit is famous for its fantastic Rieslings from Piesport. But the people in the know know that German Pinot Noir is the biggest thing going now and the value is ridiculous as not many people are making high quality German Pinot Noir. But quietly Niklas Welter is killing it in Piesport making small batch Pinot Noir from revered sites usually saved for Riesling. Global warming has provided a new way and new perspective in German Pinot Noir. The Pinots here at every level are astonishing and all crafted by a genius. A quiet genius, but a genius no doubt. I cannot tell you how great these are, at this moment in time. He only sells his wines when they are ready to drink but still can age as they can afford to as they make and sell out of brilliant Riesling every year that funds this passion project of Niklas.
First up is the 2010 Spater-Veit Spatburgunder # 1 ($32.99 on 4) which is their top bottling, their Grand Cru per se. How do I describe this wine? If Josef Walter is more Cote de Beaune (Volnay, Corton, Maranages) and Enderle & Moll and Zieriesen are more of a Vosne-Romanee style then I have to say Spater-Veit is more of a Nuits-Saint-Georges / Chambolle style. But it's those Nuits vineyards that are next to Vosne-Romanee like Bousselots and Chaignots. The wines still have that NSG grit, grip and structure but they also have the elegance, finesse and head spinning aromas of Vosne-Romanee. As they age they become more Chambolle-like. The nose is damn near ridiculous and in my wine career it's still very memorable when I stuck my enormous schnozz in that glass. Complex with loads of spice and so layered and really jumps out of the glass. Just profound. 2010 is a great vintage for Pinot Noir in the Mosel. It's a warm vintage but with crazy acidity. So you have thick luscious fruit that is buoyed by some stupendous acids. The warmer vintages are very good for Pinot Noir in the Mosel (it's cold). Sick nose. Just sick. Floral like crazy with a melange of fruits - ripe cherry fruits. But also a nice floral element. So mineral, so slated, so pretty. A true drop everything and run and get this wine nose so you can smell It for days. The palate is elegant, oh so elegant, and so pretty with terrific ripeness and so juicy. Serious concentration and wonderfully intense. Stunning. Ripe beautiful tannins with a long and mineral finish. The slate is so apparent on this wine and the freshness is like Mosel Riesling. This is as nimble and delicate as Mosel Riesling and often shares the same characteristics but in Pinot Noir clothing. Very juicy, amazing fruit. Stunning. It has some tannins still and can be aged for 8-10 more years I'd say.
The #1 is from the great Piesporter Falkenberg which up until this point I only have had Stefan Steinmetz's Riesling from this site. It is a terrific site with absolutely rocking top notch terroir. It is a very high south facing vineyard with blue slate. This wine, and all the others I will offer are only offered to me and private (read the best, wealthy German) clients. Most of their production is dry, off dry and sweet Riesling. This is almost a side passion project. Most of the Cru wines are released, minimum, 5 years after harvest. I tasted some younger vintages and I have to agree that is a wise decision and luxury that they can afford to do it. It is also a huge boon for the consumer. For $33 just get this wine. You know I would not risk it all to sell a German wine I don't think is the among the best.
Up next I've got the "1er Cru" wine which I don't have much of as it is at its peak. The 2008 Spater-Veit Spatburgunder "P" can be had for $24.99 a bottle and that is a steal for this glorious bottle of wine. Oh what glory it is. It's not often one gets to taste mature Mosel Pinot from the vintage all Mosel geeks flock to. 2008. High acid, great crispy fruit, and eternal structure. That's 2008. The wine has a gorgeous nose as soon as it's popped. Super floral, ripe, spicy and mineral. The palate is so profound with uncanny brilliant freshness. Long like you would not believe with beautiful pure and vivid cherry fruit and so juicy. Nimble and mineral, and so pure. Gorgeous. This is a crazy value. It is very limited.
I have to admit I got to Piesport, which way my last visit on my last day (my 4th appointment of the day) on my recent August trip before the drive to Frankfurt. I was beat. It was also the hottest day I have ever been involved in in all my visits to Germany. It was 100 degrees in the Mosel. It was absurd and brutal. I was anxious to leave and kind of wanted to taste quickly and go to Frankfurt. I was tired, hot and had already tasted 30+ 2015's and they really bring the acid which really brings the sleepy. But as soon as he poured the first wine, that magic moment happened when you know you have discovered something unique and special. It's what us wine importers absolutely live for. Lighting in a bottle as they say.
Today's winery, Spater-Veit was recommended by my dear friend Stefan Steinmetz of the estate Gunther Steinmetz, who also happens to make delicious and very serious Pinot Noir. Stefan is a man of extraordinary knowledge of the Mosel. I'm lucky to have him as a friend but also as someone who gives me tips. He is responsible for bringing me to the attention of Enderle & Moll and now I have to thank him for the rest of my life for him for introducing me to the stunning Pinot Noirs of Spater Veit in Piesport. Yes, that Piesport, home of some of the best and most sacred Riesling terroir in the world.
Niklas, the son, is in charge of the Pinot Noir and he has the touch. That magic touch. Stefan told me they are by far the best Pinot Noirs in the Mosel, even better than his. That's why I love Stefan, he can put great wine ahead of ego. He's right. These are stunning wines. Just stunning. Spater Veit only planted Pinot Noir in 1991. Niklas father planted it and the first wine in bottle was 1997.
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