"Les Garances"
- Our Least Expensive "Premium Beaujolais"
- 70 Year Old Vines
- A Knockout Stunner of a Wine
Vielles Vignes
- Classic Cote de Brouilly
- Traditional Beaujolais with More Depth
I've got very few rules in wine but one rule I 100% ascribe to is that the wines that are typically lean
in normal classic vintages are the wines to buy cases of in warmer vintages. In the two vintages of Baron l'Ecluse I've offered, the '13 and '14 this utterly classic vin de garde estate, made brilliant wines but they both need serious age or 3-4 days open. That is not the case for the two brilliant 15s that they have made. They can be drunk young without the typical l'Ecluse early austerity in 2015 and they will age 15-20 years.
This is an estate that was founded in 1854 in the Cote de Brouilly. In 1854 it was owned by Tante Yvonne who decided to divide the property into 3 parts (the other 2 are Chateau Thivin and Pavillon des Chavannes). The Domaine is only 5 ha and is nestled at the highest point of Mt. Brouilly. For my Beaujolais geeks out there, it is adjacent to Thivin's famed La Chapelle Parcel. It is prime real estate. Perfect southern exposure and a very steep slope. What more could you ask for?
The 2015 Baron de l'Ecluse Cote de Brouilly VV for $23.99 a bottle on a 4-pack and is a microscopic 300 cases made from 70 year old vines. That is mega small even in the world of artisanal Beaujolais.
The wine is delicious. Just exhilaratingly delicious with a huge, bright ruby color, and a peppery, meaty classic Cote de Brouilly nose with elements of spice. The fruit is exuberant on the nose and has notes of black cherries and cassis. Blackberries as well. This wine kills and the 70 year old vines really show with the primal nature of this wine. It is full bodied, yet round and has the classic dark berry and foresty Cote de Brouilly fruit which has extra sap and intensity from the 15 warmth. The finish is exceptional, long and persistent. The tannins are big yet very ripe. I'd say it could use 3-4 years and optimally it should be drunk between 2019/2024, maybe longer. But, make no mistake it is very, very good now. This is the type of wine I love to drink almost all the time. Light, yet heavy, simple and complex. A wine for geeks and normals alike. We love contrasts.
Also this must be said. Many people compare this to Brouilly but in fact they are entirely separate appellations. It is higher up on the hillside (actually on an extinct volcano called Mont Brouilly) and gets more sunlight and as a result the wines are generally more structured and concentrated. Oh, it sees NO WOOD.
Next up is the top cuvee which is the 2015 Baron de l'Ecluse Cote de Brouilly "Les Garances" for $27.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. Just explosive black and blue fruits on the nose and on the palate. There is opulence and sap for days. A mid-palate you can get lost in with loads of earth, sappy black fruits, spice and mineral. Tiny concentrated black and blue fruits with exquisite purity and freshness that fans out on the long, delineated finish. Super long and complex with utmost finesse and zero hint of new wood. This is a brilliant bottle of serious ageworthy Beaujolais. The vines are 70 years old, the same age as the VV cuvee. It goes through a semi carbonic maceration and is 70% destemmed. It is raised in barrels of 2-5 years for 12-14 months and the resultant wine is a stunner. Only 300 cases total. A bit young now but excellent and shows its breeding.Will last 15-20 years easy.
2015 Baron de l'Ecluse Cote de Brouilly "Vieilles Vignes" - $25.99
($95.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
2015 Baron de l'Ecluse Cote de Brouilly "Les Garances" - $29.99
($111.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
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