2008 Trarbacher Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken*
- Martin Muellen's Top Vineyard, One of the Best in Germany
- Best Vintage Between 2001 and 2015 - Super Classic in the Mosel
- Nose: A Crazy Complex Melange
- Elderberry Flowers, Spices, Minerals
- Tangerine, Herbs, White Pepper, Citrus Oil
- Palate: Structurally Like 1er Cru White Burgundy
- Perfect, Perfect Balance - A Thing of Beauty
- So Pure and Stunningly Elegant
- Mineral and Petroleum and Spice and Peach and Salinity
- Will Age for 25-35 More Years
The Last of the Good Old Days
Old Fass Selections Listers remember the good old days at the start of our offers. We were so far ahead of the curve on Martin Muellen, we knew about him even before most German wine drinkers. Martin is in a part of the Mosel that was, at that time, relatively unknown (it is certainly not today). Every month or two, I would offer some crazy aged riesling for scratch and you could have as much as you wanted. And then of course the ratings came. Martin got the top rated dry wine in Germany one year and became recognized as one of the top producers in Germany. His cellar was rapidly emptied of it's caches of old rarities. But, with Martin, sometimes there are things that escape the list and one day, out of thin air, they appear...
The Wine
When I saw on his list the 2008 Martin Muellen Trarbacher Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken* for as little as $49.99 on a 4-pack I nearly jumped out of my seat. This is an insane steal! We have offered the 2008 QBA from Trarbacher Huhnerberg and the regular 2008 non starred Spatlese Trocken and I had no clue there was a starred version (which is, of course, better). I was like a little kid at Christmas or in my case, Chanukah.
2008 for me is the best vintage in the Mosel between 2001 and 2015. It is as classic as they come
with razor sharp acidity, lean Mosel fruit and just electricity for days.The bottle Martin poured for me had been open for around a week or so and still needed some air in my glass as is par the course at Chez Müllen.
On the nose, you get elderberry flowers, spices, minerals, deep profound aromas that are ripe and so intense on the nose. White chocolate, tangerine, herbs, white pepper, pepper, citrus oil and just ever evolving very aromatic complexity. Big zesty citrus with apricot and earth, tree bark and mineral tones. Also exotic spices. Complex as all can be on the nose and even more complex on the palate.
Palate is like 1er Cru White Burgundy structurally, then very herbal and mineral, juicy, so long, so complex. I swished this in my mouth for a minute and it gained in complexity while I was swishing. Palate is so pure and beautifully elegant. So complex and mineral with huge acid and so refined. Citrus pith. Intense. Focused. Mineral, mineral and mineral and petroleum and spice and peach and salinity and an endless finish that builds and builds like the force. The acidity is perfect and brings one to attention, but the acid/mineral/fruit balance is something else. This is so so elegant. Concentrated and structured with insane density yet so refined. Mineral, citrus and just takes over the mouth. Impressive. Superb finish. Thunderous. This will age for 20-25 more years.
A wine this good from Burgundy would cost well over $100. This is one of those once a year or so aged dry wine offers, I STRONGLY suggest that you stock up.
Why is this my favorite vintage?
I remember when it came out it was not looked upon as a great vintage as we were in the middle the "great ripening" series of vintages, like 2007, 2006 and 2005. 2008 was like a revival of old school Mosel vintages like 1996 or 1994. It was an utter classic. Maybe that is why it was initially looked upon with skepticism. A winemaker I tasted with in the Rheinhessen said he has over 50 cases of 2008 Mosel wines, which is a testament to the quality of the vintage. It is utterly brilliant and to have a wine direct from the cellar of Martin of one of his best wines from the vintage is a rare opportunity to buy and cellar an epic wine.
Because Martin has the oldest basket press in Germany and he presses his wines for 20 hours while normal winemakers with their modern presses will maximum press for 2-3 hours, his wines can defy normal wine laws and physics. It's just amazing what Martin does and can do. There is no other winemaker like him in the Mosel or the world and it is a gift that I can work with him. He gave me a big hug when I arrived and big hug when I left. The man exudes the joy of wine, winemaking and life and he is a gift to humanity. There is also no other winemaker who loves his wines as much as he does but not in an annoying way but in a humble, earnest and joyful way. This wine is a joy and a gift to wine drinkers everywhere.
2008 Martin Mullen Trarbacher Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken* - $51.99 ($199.96 4-pack) (Included Tariff $5.77*)
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