Monday, October 28, 2019

Perhaps Our Most Important Champagne Offer of the Year - Our Entry in the Top Tier - Spoil Yourself Big Time for Under $80

One of the Top 2-3 Producers Who Is Not Yet a Big Deal in the US

Perseval Farge Cuvee La Pucelle Brut Nature 1er Cru
 - Refined, Sophisticated, Complex and Cerebral 
 - Better than Bereche Reflets des Antan ($95-$150)
 - Better than Laval Brut Nature Cumieres 1er Cru ($80-$125)
 - Better than SO Many of the "Hip Instagram Bubblies"
 - Incredible Palate Vivacity - So Much Going on
 - Incredible Clean Fruit, Minerality, Acidity, So Juicy
 - Gorgeous Internal Aromatics: Fruit, Yeast, Brioche
 - Simply Amazing - The Whole Package
 - That Special Place Where You Can't Believe You're Drinking Something So Good
 - One of the 4-5 10/10 Wines from My Trip

Perseval Farge Champagne Brut Nature Zero Dosage
 - 10-15 Year Old Grapes for Under $46
 - Nostril Coating Acidity and Minerality
 - That Unique, Old Champagne Complexity
 - World Class Depth and Flavor Intensity
 - Perfect Amount of Richness
 - Terrific Salinity 
 - So Much Character - Really a Fascinating Bottle of Wine
 - Slays Pretty Much Every Under $50 Champagne on the Market
 - Mostly Pinot Meunier (Champagne Geek Alert)

Most of the Champagne Lovers on the list already know the story of Perseval Farge.  A grower producer (they grow all of their own grapes) that is making incredible wines.  I've been around for the entire grower Champagne movement and I know when a producer is great enough to be recognized in the top tier (before they are) and Perseval Farge is one of the top producers in Champagne and certainly one of the top 2-3 that are not yet a big deal in the States.  Each of the wines that I am offering today is special so please don't just buy the top wine and ignore the second.  It's brilliant, although in a totally different way.

Top, Top Tier Grower Champagne
First, I'm offering their top cuvee.  The Perseval Farge Cuvee La Pucelle Brut Nature 1er Cru,
which can be had for $77.99 a bottle on the 3-pack. I am so utterly excited to offer this bubbly. It's been a chore trying to get another allocation of this epic Champagne but I finally have. The La Pucelle from Perseval-Farge is an extraordinary wine in every way shape and form. Refined, sophisticated, complex and cerebral beyond anything I offer. It is ridiculous and is also the most balanced no dosage wine I've ever had. There is amazing fruit and a creamy texture but this does not lack sizzle. It's got the sizzle and the steak.  This is one of those "palate vivacity" wines.  There is so much going on at the same time on the palate, it's crazy.  It has terrific fruit and at the same time top notch minerality but also this sense of being alive because of the bright but integrated acidity.  Terrific internal aromatics of fruit, yeast and brioche.  It is so elegant, so long, so pure, and so much better than many of the hip growers that everyone is drinking. The depth and flavor intensity are world class as are the power, concentration and finesse. Just top top class. This is Brut nature, but not a screecher, like some can be. It's all from Chamery, a 1er Cru village in Montagne de Reims, and is 100% Pinot Noir. Aged 30% barrel and 70% Inox. It is also their smallest production wine by far and needs the most time open and could use 2-4 years in the cellar, but make no mistake, this is a knockout.

If you normally spend $80-$150 on champagne, buy as much of this as you can and bathe in it. If you splurge once a year on a great bottle, this should be it. It will give you an entree into the normally unaffordable world of top tier Grower Champagne. Granted the price has gone up since I first offered it, it still is a value and a stunning Champagne  This was one of the 4-5 wines I gave a 10 on Delectable on the trip where I tasted it (another on a recent trip was 2010 Raveneau Les Clos - yes it's in that league). I can see this aging gracefully for 10+ years. I had this recently and it is insanely delicious. After 7-8 hours it got to that special place where you can't believe that you are drinking something so good. To that place where it's so good you don't want to ever swallow it and let the experience of tasting it end.

And Now The Champagne Geek Wine?

Why is This a Champagne Geek Wine?
1) Zero Dosage.  At its best, some of the best Champagnes made are zero dosage (no added sugar).  The complexity, linearity and precision are almost unequaled.  But, this is a very hard style to make as there is a reason dosage was invented, which was that sometimes bone dry Champagne is too brutal and needs a little sugar to balance it out.

2) Pinot Meunier.  Don't get me wrong, I love Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-bsed Champagnes.  But for me, Pinot Meunier adds that extra little bit of complexity.  Of differentness.  The wines are delicious but also super interesting and appropriate for both geek and non-geek audiences.

The NV Perseval Farge Champagne Brut Nature Zero Dosage can be had for $45.99 each on a 3-pack. This is just an ultra special bottle of Champagne and reminds me in so many ways of its big brother, La Pucelle. The blend is important in that this is Pinot Meunièr dominant with it being 52% of the blend and the rest is 38% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. It's mostly from 2009 and 2010 and a little bit of '08, '07, '06 and '04. The vines are around average age of 29 years in argile/sable soils. The wine is pure magic.

The Brut Nature is very elegant but also has an appealing wild element that Pinot Meunièr often gives. So long, so pure, and so much better than many of the hip growers that everyone is drinking. Toasty, nutty super complex nose with every expanding mineral complexity.

The palate has supreme elegance, sappy red cherry fruit, incredible concentration and sap.  The depth and flavor intensity are world class as are the power, concentration and finesse. The finish is like you just rode a roller coaster - you are left with the long but fleeting memories of the perfection of the palate.  This is Brut nature, but not a screecher, like some can be. Simply put this is an astonishing bottle of Champagne and the value for the money is unlike any Brut Nature out there. It is one of those Champagnes that is so balanced, so fine, so elegant, so full of character. you would have no issue paying $60-$80 a bottle.  The nose has that yummy yeasty brioche going on.  So much minerality and acidity it feels like your nostrils are on fire.  The palate has remarkable fruit which is especially surprising given the zero dosage.  Also very alive on the palate.  Also a touch of richness - not so much so as to interfere but enough to be of interest and align with the fruit.  Really well balanced.  The minerals on the finish are so perfect they almost taste sweet, which is, of course impossible, but that's the sense that you get.

What I love about their Brut Nature in particular is it is so sappy and well-fruited that you swear there has to be sugar in there. Even a little. No. None. Nada. It's like those people spinning plates on sticks. One small mistake of balance and the whole thing comes tumbling down. That is this wine, a perfectly balanced wine that the drinker cannot believe is so balanced despite the odds against it.

The Estate

The estate is only 4 hectares but like our own Croix Montjoie in Vezelay it is unusual that all the wines they make are from one continuous plot. It's usually not that way in Champagne at all. There are maybe 27 or 28 Clos' in all of Champagne. Not that this is one, but pretty close. They farm sustainably and are very concerned about what their work on the land will affect future generations. They use lower sulfur than most but not at the levels of natural winemakers.

Perseval Farge "La Pucelle" Brut Nature 1er Cru - $79.99 ($233.97 3-pack) 


NV Perseval Farge Champagne Brut "Zero Dosage" - $47.99 ($137.97 3-pack) 

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