- $100 in the Stores, $67.99 Today (Direct from the Estate)
- The Finesse of Puligny and the Power of Meursault
- Deeply Floral Nose: Iodine, Lemon Drop Candy
- Stunning Finesse on the Palate
- As Good as the Best in Puligny; the 3 Tier Prices Reflect That
- Will be Famous Once People see How It Ages
2018 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc Vieilles Vignes
- If This Isn't Your House White Burgundy, I Don't Know What Is
- Amazing Mineral Complexity and Lean Apple Fruit
- Rounding Richness Take This Over the Top
- Drinks at At Least Village Level
- Deeper Texture than Previous Vintages
Julien Cruchandeau: No Longer the Undiscovered Star
Since we last left Julien Cruchandeau, he was getting national representation and now is seen on Instagram feeds everywhere. Somms love him. Even with 3-tiers, it's fair priced wine for restaurants. Julien is a good man and will always work with me as I did stumble upon him back in 2013. It's nice that now he is a star and sells out before the wine is bottled, he still sells to me. His importer is very famous and has worked with and still does work with a small selection of some of the greatest estates in Burgundy. It was a small ego boost to see Julien's name next to some of these stalwarts. His name is next to those stalwarts for a reason. He makes superb wines of incredible refinement and precision. The precision, and also the aromatic fireworks are the house style here. And that refinement. Every wine. Every quality level. Today is a cool e-mail as I have his stunning Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc made from very old vines and his best white wine and one that is quickly becoming one of my favorites. His stunning Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Hameau du Blagny," which he started with in 2014 after he won a special vineyard lottery. I am also selling these direct so my prices are significantly cheaper than what's out there if it is out there as he doesn't make much and it sells sells sells, so please don't forward this or post it on social media. I know there is a fair share of Cruchandeau freaks on the list and I am lucky to have him as others in his position have left me completely and you know what's happened with those prices.
The 2018 Vintage
Cruchandeau's 18s are just electric and have that acid and mineral spine that all white Burgundy lovers crave. But they also have gorgeous dramatic fruit and according to Julien, more freshness and acidity than his 15s and 17s, which I concur with after tasting them out of barrel. Julien says it's his best vintage and his evolution as a winemaker is so damn impressive. The 18s here are remarkable. The contrast between freshness and the beautiful fruit of the vintage along with that salinity and purity is awe inspiring.
Up first is one of the best value White Burgundies I currently sell, it is the 2018 Julien Cruchandeau
Nose was quiet when I tasted there but based on past bottles of previous vintages tasted at home it has really amazing mineral complexity and lean apple fruit. A touch of peach skin. The minerality is very wafting and almost Riesling like! But the nose will develop fruit with some age.
The palate is the story here. Stunning for what it is. It's super refined and elegant (way more than it should be from this humble appellation) with stunning freshness and depth as well. This is super deep in 2018 But the acid is like a rapier on your palate. I love 2018 acidity and I know you will as well. Leaves you salivating instantly. And the length is just ridiculous and washes your palate in mineral and good old lean green appley Chardonnay fruit. Palate staining and very, very grippy. This is aged half in old oak and half in stainless steel and you have a nice acidity blended with a terrific roundness. It used to be 100% stainless steel but Julien thought it was too nervy and wanted to accentuate the fruit and texture so he changed to 50/50 steel/oak. There really is amazing volume and depth here and as it aired out in my glass it changed so much. This is more appealing now than in previous vintages as the texture is deeper and more interesting. His best version of the wine yet! It's amazing how precise and clean all of Julien's wines are. You won't believe this $25!!
Today I am also super excited to offer the 2018 Julien Cruchandeau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Hameau de Blagny" for as little as $67.99 on a 3-pack. This is his best vintage yet for what is becoming one of my favorite wines in all of my white burg book. Compare the 2015 at $78 and the 2016 at $98! What a deal today! I'm lucky to get a nice allocation. This is a steal!! 18 will be likely $125-$150. Hameau de Blagny is one of the rarer Puligny 1er Crus out there but can make a wine that has the finesse of Puligny and the power of Meursault. The minerality in this wine is off the charts and even when I tasted it in its infancy it has such a long presence on the palate. The 2018 is the best one since the 2014 with stunning purity, aromas and purity. The acid is more like a ninja than a Samurai. It's intense and there's a lot but it's sneaky and refined. Really takes over your mouth. This is a super intense wine and just a remarkable wine with so much potential.
The nose is deeply floral and mineral with amazing perfectly judged light salting of oak. Your nose will get stuck in the glass. Hints of iodine, lemon drop candy (think Meyer Lemon) and hazelnut after a while. All of this is with a major and intense mineral underpinning. His talent with aromatics are not just limited to the reds. This is spectacular.
The palate is gorgeous with the classic Cruchandeau finesse, crunch, refinement and and purity and OMG so much acid. The mid palate one can get lost in. There is so much material here. It's incredible. So so elegant and super complex. This has finesse now like the best. Carillon, Leflaive.
Saline mineral finish that does not quit. Stunning freshness, juiciness and balance. So so complex. As good as the big boys in Puligny. Amazing length and persistence.
This is must buy and of course is limited. I just had the 2014 with my family in mid November and my god it was gorgeous. Moved my stepmother to tears.
As far as where Julien's Puligny ranks as far as the big boys in Puligny, it's firmly in 2nd tier right behind the big boys. But could move to fist tier with proper aging. The 2014 and the 2017 and the 2018 so far have the most potential for 25 year aging. Yes that's right. 25 years. The structure Julien gets is no joke. These are not Ramonet, Domaine Leflaive, Sauzet or Carillon but they are right below in my opinion. Julien will be in the class of guys who make a killer Puligny 1er cru or two but don't specialize in it, like Coche-Dury/de Montille and Dujac. The Hameau de Blagny form Julien will be a famous wine once there are more vintages and people see how it will age. There is a structure and intensity along with stunning finesse that makes this comparable to the big boys. Buy now before it gets expensive. Look at Chavy Chouet.
The story of how Julien got this parcel is one of Burgundy's unique little quirks. There was a raffle for this slice of the 1er Cru, and Julien won the raffle and was awarded the land (our own Vincent Ledy finished 2nd). The soil is white marl and the age of the vines are 50 years. The vineyard produces very small grapes that yield very concentrated wine.
2018 Julien Cruchandeau Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc Vieilles Vignes - $26.99 ($91.96 4-pack) (*Including Tariff of $2.29)
2018 Julien Cruchandeau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Hameau du Blagny" - $69.99 ($203.97 3-pack) (*Including Tariff of $7.91)
No comments:
Post a Comment