Saturday, May 30, 2020

Son of Müllen: A Part Of Krover Paradies Is Now His and Jonas Is Pushing Quality - Half the Price of Huhnerberg - Getting Very Close Quality-Wise - Spectacular Values for A Candidate for Germany's Top White Wine Producer

Jonas Müllen
 - I've Known Him for Years as Martin's Prodigy Son
 - He's Taken Over A Section of Krover Paradies, Martin's #2 Site
 - He's Pushing His Father and Beloved Huhnerberg 
 - These Wines Are Less Famous and Incredible Values
 - They Won't Be for Long

Krover Paradies
 - At Pretty Much Any Other Winery in the Mosel, Would Be the Top Dry Wine
 - Yes - Mineral, Balanced, Green Apple, Citrus
 - But Also Has the Controlled Density of Huhnerberg
 - The 2007 ** Was a God Wine

2018 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken**
 - Nose: Classic Slate, Superb Clarity
 - Citrus, Peach, Tangerine, Spice
 - Amazing Tensile Nervousness
 - Incredible Purity and Clarity
 - Palate: Pure, Citrus Fruits and Energy
 - A Hint of Opulence
 - So Elegant and Concentrated
 - Keller-like Roundness
 - Dances on your Palate
 - Long Salty Finish
 - 93 Points MFW - $27.99!

2018 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken***
 - Jonas' Baby - His First Wine
 - A Baby Hercules At This Point
 - Very, Very Young But Will be Brilliant
 - Powerful and Deep
 - So Much Raw Material
 - Pink Grapefruit, Tangerine, Quince, Honeysuckle, Kiwi
 - Honey, Confectionary Sugar
 - Sick Slate
 - So Concentrated
 - Palate: Big and Dense
 - With Typical Muellen Lightness
 - 92 Points MFW
 - I Had This Over 7 Hours
 - Will Be a 95+ When It Integrates in a Few Years
- A 30 Year Wine

The Evolution of Jonas Müllen
This is one of the more exciting Martin Müllen offers I've ever written. This is because in this offer are two brilliant wines but one is a preview of what's to come at the Müllen estate. Jonas Müllen, Martin's son has gone to wine school at Geisenheim and apprenticed at Egon Müller amongst others. In all the years of going to Martin Müllen I've seen Jonas grow from popping into the tasting when he was younger to hang out to being an integral part of the tasting going back and forth with his father giving me info, to today, a wine from his own vineyard. It's truly exciting for me personally as Jonas is as good as they come and he's being trained by one of the the best winemakers in the Mosel. I had no idea the second wine today was from Jonas' vineyard. More on that later.

The 2018 Vintage
As we all know Martin only made 6 dry wines in 2018. Well as you all know now. The vintage was a terrific vintage at Müllen but Martin doesn't make x dry wines and y sweet wines in any given
vintage. Martin makes what the vintage gives him. In 2018 it gave him 6 dry wines and I will sell them all. Because they were all remarkable. He also made almost 18 sweet wines in 2018. Sometimes he makes 12-15 dry wines. Sometimes only 6 sweet wines. Getting the new price list is always one of my great highlights of the year as I get to find out what Martin made. He's a true old school winemaker in that way. I respect that so much as there is many a German estate that makes, and understandably so, a very similar lineup every year with some variations on the edges. From a marketing perspective it makes complete sense but from an oenological perspective it doesn't. Ideally you do it Martin's way. Each vineyard and micro section tells you if it will be dry, feinherb or sweet. You don't make the wine.  It makes itself and then you guide it all the way into the bottle. It's much more challenging, mysterious and romantic but Martin and Jonas do not turn down challenges at all and it shows in the sheer brilliance of Martin's 18s and specifically the 6 Müllen dry wines. What a set. Only two more left after this offer!

The Wines
Today I've got an utterly brilliant duo from the wonderful Krover Paradies vineyard.

Up first is just a steal. I can't get over how inexpensive this wine is vis a vis the quality. A spectacular QPR. The 2018 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken** can be had for $27.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. I can't believe I just typed that.

What a nose. Classic slate and superb clarity. Citrus, peach, tangerine, spice, all sorts of citrus, amazingly clean and direct. Soft almost but so energetic as well. Amazing tensile nervousness on the nose. Incredible purity and clarity but also a bit closed at this point.
The palate is a blockbuster.  Chock full of pure, citrus fruits and energy but also a hint of opulence. Citrus peel, some mango flesh, just ripe, slate, incredible inner mouth aromas and jaw dropping purity.  So clear. Wow, so elegant and concentrated with dazzling purity and freshness but closed a bit but after 2 hours it really gets going. It has a Keller-like roundness with spice and complexity on the long salty finish. So fresh and balanced. Juicy and so clean with sweet (tart) fruit and loads of minerals. So good. Long, balanced, fresh, dynamic and complex. Chewy but ethereally chewy. Wow. This is an incredible wine at 12.5% alcohol and just dances on your palate. In 3 years this will be great but today incredible with a decant. Inquire about case pricing on this wine. This also got a 93 from Mosel Fine Wines. The review is below.

"The 2018er Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese Trocken ** comes from the prime, west-facing and hugely steep part of the vineyard called Kähl. It offers a nice nose of made of grapefruit, mirabelle, licorice, pear, and smoke. The wine delivers a gorgeous feel of juicy orchard fruits with plum, fresh pear, grapefruit, and fine spices on the not fully dry-tasting palate. The wine proves nicely long and suave in the gorgeous finish. It is still somewhat reduced in the otherwise suave and elegant after-taste. It will only fully blossom in 5 years or more. 2023-2033"  93 Points, Mosel Fine Wines 


Now we have the wine from Jonas Müllen's vineyard. This is also from a steep section of the Krover Paradies called they Kähl. This section is iron rich and differs from the ** Paradies above. The 2018 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken*** can be had for $32.99 today on a 4-pack. This wine needs a minimum of a 6 hour decant. It's powerful and deep and has so much raw material that it needs some hours to unwind. Then.  very evocative nose. More spacious than the **. Huge citrus, lanolin and bouillon. More vivid citrus and complex other citrus. Pink grapefruit, tangerine, confectionary sugar and sick slate. Honey, a bit of quince, honeysuckle, kiwi, socomplex. What a nose.Sick! Palate is round, yet so dense and spicey with enormous extract and almost a sweet tart intensity to it. So deep and juicy and also a bit closed. Long and linear with great energy and flavor hierarchy. So long. So serene. What a wine. Wow. So so intense and has at least 25 years ahead of. So concentrated. I will track these over 3 days. After 7 hours nose is incredibly perfumed. Awesome palate. Elegant, structured and concentrated. And so, so long. Unreal bitter fruits. Super citrus pith on the nose after extensive air.  Palate is big and dense but with typical Muellen balance. Jammed with apricot and citrus fruit and loads of spice and mineral. Opulent and so clean. So juicy. Wow. Amazing grip and tension. What poise - holy cow. So long, so detailed and so balanced. So deep. Unreal confectionary aromas after it warms up. Just a potpourri. Insanely complex. Best dry Paradies ever. Will last 30+ years! Below is the 92 Point Mosel Fine Wine Review.  It's accurate today if you drink it within an hour.  But based on my experience over 7 hours and drinking previous vintages, this will be a 95+ when it integrates and settles in a few years.


"The 2018er Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese Trocken *** comes from an iron-rich sector in the prime, west-facing and hugely steep part of thevineyard called Kähl. It offers a rather ample nose made of poached pear, plum, fig, brown sugar, creamy elements, and smoke and slate. The wine proves rather ample yet also nicely structured on the palate, and leaves a superb feel of grapefruit, earthy spices, and spices in the long and intense finish. While flirting with 13% of alcohol, this wine remains remarkably elegant in the finish." 2023-2033 92 Points, Mosel Fine Wine

2018 Martin Muellen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken** - $29.99 ($111.96 4-pack) (*Including Tariff of $2.47) 
2018 Martin Muellen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken*** - $34.99 ($131.96 4-pack) (*Including Tariff of $3.37)

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