Thursday, September 29, 2022

And So It Begins: Allocation Hell - 2 Incredible Values from Cruchandeau

 2020 Julien Cruchandeau Ladoix Les Ranches
 - Nose: Spice Deep Red Fruits, Cardamon 
 - Lovely Gamey/Meaty Character
 - Terrific Minerality
 - A Hint of Licorice Makes This Very Distinctive
 - Gorgeous Dense Violet Perfume Internal Aromatics
 - Drinks Like Very Good Village Gevrey
 - $34.99 - You Will Cry That You Didn't Buy More

2020 Julien Cruchandeau Savigny Les Beaune
 - As Serious Under $35 Pinot Noir As I've Ever Sold
 - Nose: Super Earthy and Mineral
 - Huge, Pungent Ripe Red Cherry
 - Spices
 - Green Fresh Rained on Moss 
 - Huge Florals
 - Palate: Just Awesome
 - Deep Cherries
 - Elegant and So Well Balanced

 - Fruit is Remarkably Deep


Allocation Hell

Today’s email is a sneak preview of the next two vintages in Burgundy. Only a few producers we carried have been allocated but now with all the short vintages I’d say that 85% of our producers are now allocated. In 2020, which is a very similar vintage to 2019, the strict allocations begin. I do think I will begin to offer other Burgundies in 2020 and 2021 of producers than I can find at solid prices as demand has never been higher and supply has never been lower. I love Julien Cruchandeau and he has remained very loyal despite getting picked up by Martine’s wines many years ago. I know I am directly responsible for this as I found the head of Martine’s wines on our email list. There are some new realities with Julien now. One is I’m not sure we will ever get the Nuits St. Georges Aux St. Jacques anymore which is his highest red wine. It is already sold out in 2020 sadly. He did not make any of the great Bourgogne Haute Cotes de Nuits “Les Valencons” in 2020 and the great Haut Cotes de Nuits Les Cabottes is already sold out. He made four red wines in 2020 and two are already sold out. Today I’ve got 36 bottles of two of them. This is going to the whole list despite me not having nearly enough so when there is a good vintage in terms of quantity I will know how much to ask Julien. Fingers crossed for 2022.


The Wines

Today I am proud to offer the 2020 Julien Cruchandeau Ladoix Les Ranches for as little as $34.99 a bottle NET. The village of Ladoix never gets any love even though it has two Grand Crus and seven Premier Crus. It should. This is some serious terroir. It needs to get more love and Julien's expression is stunning. The 2020 is the best one he has ever made. I drink and cellar a ton of Julien's Ladoix as I think the value cannot be beaten.  This is the kind of wine that value seeking French wine buyers drink.  Ladoix, in the right hands, can be terrific and a great value. It is a worthy successor to the brilliant 2019 which is the last one I sold.  Julien, like many other of our younger growers makes a quality leap every year, regardless of vintage. They improve as they learn from past vintages. He did that in 2013/2014 and now with 19/20 he is on another level with his reds and more specifically his Ladoix Les Ranches.


There is terrific clarity to this wine and the aromas really jump to the point of being stunning: Meaty, floral, mineral. The nose has immediate depth and goes between savory, spice and deep red fruitsCardamon and clove. Lovely gamey/meaty character as well that adds more complexity than you would think. You cannot believe this is Ladoix. It harkens more from Gevrey


It is nimble yet mineral and has that terrific 2020 volume in the mouth along with sweet, silky and impossibly elegant tannins with a crunchy, ripe, and deep finishTerrific richness, texture and freshness on the palate. The tannins are just amazing on this Ladoix. So refined, juicy and silky. Amazing persistence. Beautiful, silky and elegant tannins. Best tannins I've ever had in a Julien wine. Really terrific wine and has the structure to go 10-12 years, easy. It's so complex, so juicy and just so suave. Julien killed 2020 and perhaps got the best fruit of his life. 


I'm so excited to offer the wonderful 2020 Julien Cruchandeau Savigny Les Beaune for $34.99 NET. I love this wine. I've tasted a lot of Savigny to offer this gem and am so happy i finally can as the five year wait was difficult. It's from vines planted in 1980 and all from a lieu-dit called Les Petits Picotins. This is as serious $35 under Pinot Noir as I've ever sold. What makes this so special is how silly juicy it is combined with the high quality of the tannins. They are very elegant, nimble and velvety. Combine that with stunning purity and freshness and you have a wine that bats so much higher than $34.99.


The nose is super earthy and mineral with a tweed jacket thing going on and huge pungent ripe red cherry that is pungent like lipstick. An awesome nose. Spices, green fresh rained on moss and huge florals. So generous as the 20’s can be.


The palate is just awesome. The ripest, juiciest and deepest cherries one can imagine. Almost a raspberry confit intensity in the mouth as well. Elegant and so well balanced with gorgeous minerality throughout and a succulence and tang to the ultra pure fruit with such velvety and delicate tannins. Ultra clean bottle of wine with just a deliciousness factor that is off the charts. The fruit is remarkably deep for any Pinot from anywhere under $35


2020 Julian Cruchandeau Ladoix Les Ranches - $34.99 NET 


2020 Julian Cruchandeau Savigny-Les-Beaune - $34.99 NET

No comments:

Post a Comment