Tuesday, February 2, 2016

The Ethereal Finesse and Elegance of Volnay - Plus the Hidden Value in the Pascal Bouley Portfolio

Pascal Bouley is my kind of producer.  No fancy website.  No fancy labels.  Not fancy marketers.
Réyane et Pascal just work the vines every day, all day to make the best wines that they can.  And it shows.  I really love their wines and as customers start to try them, the word is spreading.

As the verdict comes in 2014 is shaping up to be a terrific vintage, but like many previous vintages it is short. Pascal Bouley was down 35% from a normal vintage. But what was made was very special and there is so much to like at this winery. Do not let the deceptively everyday pricepoint detract from the quality and ageability of these wines. These are made in an uncompromising style and are built to age. 2014, I have noticed, needs a lot of air that this point. But once that air is given you have a very alluring and inviting vintage with many wines that are ready to drink but can and will age. This is a perfect vintage for Pascal Bouley as the 2012's I've sold less the village Volnay, all need some cellaring time. I've had multiple wines from 99 and 90 at the estate and they age incredibly well. 2014 seems like the Pascal Bouley vintage to really drink now and let age. One of the best and most old school/respected palates in the wine game, Claude Kolm, was just in Burgundy tasting the 14's and he was very enthusiastic about the Bouley 14's especially considering the recent hail damage at the estate.

"The vines here are located in the center of the 2012-13-14 hailstorms; in addition, with the damage done to the vines in those three years and the small berries of 2015, that is a small vintage, too. 2014 is about 35% of a normal crop, 2015 about half. That said, the good news is that there is quality here and nothing that should stop fans of this estate from buying the 2014s, should they be able to find them. Even before considering the stress that three consecutive years of hail put on the vines, this is a good vintage, and adding that stress in, the feat is even more impressive." - Claude Kolm

First, I have a terrific Volnay 1er Cru from Pascal Bouley, the 2014 "Santenots" which can be had for the startlingly low price of $39.99 a bottle on a 4-pack.  This is a classic Fass Selections direct from the winery incredible value for an incredible wine (Santenots goes for $50 - $165 through the 3 tier system) For me this is a sophisticated and very concentrated expression of Volnay. In 2014 as Claude Kolm comments it is much more finesse driven, than say the 2012 which is more powerful and structured. But that concentration is there if not backed by the sheer power of 2012. But the acid and freshness of 14 are there in full force. The purity and snap of 2014's fruit is lovely and one of the hallmarks of the vintage. Santenots is the eastern most 1er Cru in Volnay and borders Meursault and Monthelie. Below is Claude's note. I agree 100% with it. It's a gorgeous finesse-driven wine with such purity and elegance. Really this is what Volnay is all about. There is something very special about Volnay and it is perfectly illustrated in this wine. Lacey, finesse and achingly beautiful soil-driven Pinot Noir.

"The Santenots is medium-weight and not overly extracted. It is light, pretty, precise, and crystalline. As with other Santenots in this vintage, this is atypically a wine of finesse, but very enjoyable, nonetheless. (89-93)" - Claude Kolm

I am also offering a Monthelie 1er Cru from Pascal Bouley (shhhh....don't tell Florent Garaudet) that is just brilliant in 2014 and will provide immense pleasure and early drinking. The 2014 Pascal Bouley Monthelie 1er "Les Clous" can be had for $29.99 per bottle on a 4-pack. I love this vineyard and Pascal Bouley makes a brilliant one. In Monthelie proper, in that it is north and not bordering Volnay but bordering Auxey-Duresses. This is the hearty, zesty, concentrated and structured Monthelie that we all grew up on. Red fruited and exquisitely concentrated with such lovely aromas. Floral, underbrush and fern aromas add complexity. Such delicacy on the nose with a driving mineral force. This was one of my favorite wines from them in a sea of amazing Volnay 1er cru's. This is easily the sleeper value in he portfolio. The palate has such energy as great 14's tend to along with sweet confectionary fruit and really fine tannins. I can see this aging 10/15 years but drinking well out of the gates.

2014 Pascal Bouley Monthelie 1er Cru "Les Clous" - $31.99 
($119.96 4-pack)

2014 Pascal Bouley Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots" - $41.99 ($159.96 4-pack)

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