One of the categories that Fass Selections does not sell much of is Bordeaux and that is because in general many others have it covered well and Bordeaux is not a place where there are that many small family estate growers making wines. It's all about the classed growths. And in general those wines are dominated by oak and extract and high alcohol. And high prices. I don't want to get into the reasons why Bordeaux has turned into what it is now as that has been written about enough. But Bordeaux used to be a place of 11-12% beautifully balanced and focused wines with remarkable ability to age. Nothing out of place and little to no oak influence ruled the day and they were very foreign - almost impostors- to the high alcohol high extract high priced stuff that is churned out of the Right and Left Banks today.
It's really nice that I can offer the brilliant, throwback, classically styled Bordeaux wines of Arnaud Cassini from his microscopic 1.93 ha estate in St. Emilion. Today I am offering both of his 14's and these are just delightful wines and my favorite Bordeaux we work with. We offered the 12's, he did not make 13's, and now we have fresh, and utterly classic 14's. For comparisons think 2008, 2001 and 1978. Not blockbuster vintages by any means but vintages with terrific purity, balance and freshness. Arnaud uses no new oak at all for his wines, and is certified organic for his Bordeaux AC and St. Emilion. I believe 2014 is the first vintage where the St. Emilion is 100% organic. In an area not known for organic wines this is something to be applauded. He also uses indigenous yeasts for fermentation and Arnaud also uses no oak anywhere in the winery. This is highly unusual for a wine region that depends on oak for the identity of the wines. But Cassini does not like it and as a result you get wines that have beautifully preserved fruit and soil without any wood influence at all. The soils character and expression of his 2014's are nothing short of breathtaking.
Both of today's wines are firmly in the Fass 4-1-3 plan, which is buy 4, drink 1, age 3.
The 2014 Chateau Cassini Bordeaux AC can be had for $24.99 on the 4-pack. Even at $25 a bottle Bordeaux that is from humble origins such as these can age and improve. This is 100% Merlot and is vinified in cement vats with natural yeasts. Plummy fruit with lovely spice, flowers and berries. Beautiful ripe tannins give way to excellent acidity and an overall juicy impression. This is utterly classic unpretentious, fruit/soil driven Bordeaux that is such a pleasure to drink that I will be grabbing for it often this Fall. It can and should be drunk upon arrival with great vim and vigor (albeit after the requisite 3 week rest). You will not believe the quality of this wine for the money. Wines like this excite me more than finding a killer $100 bottle. Any day of the week. I hope this excites you as much as it did me.
The 2014 Chateau Cassini St. Emilion can be had for $32.99 on the 4-pack and punches way way above its weight class. I just had the 2012 the other night and it rocked, albeit coming from a lesser vintage. No pretention, no oak, not all lactic and nasty like the typical "new wave" St. Emilion can be. This must be what it tasted like 100 years ago. It is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. This is also vinified with indigenous yeasts and fermentation and elevage take place in concrete vats. There is so much dazzling pure and generous fruit along with typical St. Emilion spice. The aromatics are almost Burgundian in their breadth and range. So much spice, cocoa, plum, damson and wet earth. After you drink this wine you will wonder if you have been tasting authentic St. Emilion your whole drinking career. St. Emilion, for me, is the most spoofed out of all the Bordeaux appellations and when tasting an authentic one such as this, you almost have to reset your palate and mind. Layers and layers of the purest St. Emilion fruit you have ever tasted coat your palate with perhaps the freshest Bordeaux fruit you have ever tasted. Beautiful tannins and so pure with classic structure which hints at terrific aging potential. This is again a Fass 4-3-1 as this will age for 15-20 years.
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