Monday, October 3, 2016

My Blingiest Burgundy Producer: Small Production, 2 Grand Crus and a Premier Cru, All Stunning

My tasting with Remy Poisot at his picturesque house and cellar right in the middle of the vineyards
in Aloxe-Corton is always a memorable one. Burgundy in early March is a cold, dark place and almost can be cruel. It's hard to believe in the depths of a freezing cellar at the tail end of winter that this is the land of the greatest Pinot and Chardonnays on planet earth. It's weather can be cruel with hail and frost and Burgundy can be almost unnervingly unassuming. It's got its charms for sure but it also can seem like a scene out of a Victorian horror film. That's kind of the vibe in Remy Poisot's cellar. It has the highest ceilings of any cellar I've ever been in. It is candle lit and also lit with these tiny bulbs in big candelabras. It's the worst cellar for taking pics. It's also so cold. The coldest next to Vincent Ledy. The wines, in my opinion, taste more backwards in that cellar than anywhere else. But once they have arrived here and had the proper rest they are stunning examples of their appellations and have crisp, clean and precise fruit. The Pinot Noirs are the essence of pure, crushed fruit and a silken elegant structure. The Chardonnays are built as solid and structured as new skyscrapers in Manhattan. The wines in general are built to age (more the Grand Cru's) but certain wines can be drunk young, specifically two wines, and those are both featured in today's offer, plus another wine that has to be aged.

Remi Poisot is my blingiest winemaker in that he makes mostly Grand Cru wines. Corton-Bressandes, Corton-Charlemagne and Romanee St. Vivant are his 3 Grand Cru sites and each of them is a jaw-dropping wine. When I was at Remi's in March, I was in for a treat as we did mini verticals of each of his Grand Crus. 2011-2015 for each one and I really got a sense of all the wines. Remi has a very small estate, does not marke much and as such, these are some of the most spectacular and under the radar Grand Cru Burgs in all of the land.

First up is the stunning and alas very limited 2014 Remi Poisot Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru "En Carradeaux" for as little as $39.99 a 3-pack. This vineyard got devastated by hail in 2014 and yields were down significantly. But what was left was magical. The wine is as good if not better than the legendary 2012, which I had a bottle of other night and you can find my note here. But the 14 runs in a similar vein with more cut and clarity. terrific high toned nose. Confectionary and mineral nose and huge dark licorice aromas abound. Terrific. Deep and layered. Palate is bonkers. Deep, rich and ripe with ample sweet fruit and velvet tannins. Awesome complexity and depth. So deep, cuts a swath on the palate. So long, sappy and complex. A great 1er Cru from Pernand. The thrust, fruit quality and depth set this apart from most Pernands I've had. For the points crowd Allen Meadows of Burghound gave it 88-91. I'd tend to go on the higher side as I tasted it even before Alan Meadows and it was showing great, a 91+ in my book if I gave scores! Wait, I just did. This is very limited and very allocated.

Up next is my favorite wine to drink from Remy young. The 2014  Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes can be had for as little as $79.99 on a 3-pack. Even in that super cold cellar it has showed well. And every bottle I've opened up stateside I always think is going to be insanely closed, and it sings and soars like the Grand Cru it is. Gloriously open with superb depth, aromas and texture. The Pinot Noir trifecta.  Deftly mineral nose with insane sweet fruit. Crunchy palate and great cut and precise like the finest diamond in the world. Lucky I have these wines. Bressandes is most feminine of the Corton GC's and has such "sweet" fruit. I think the sweetest of any Corton GC in my experience. This is a very wow wine and a reason we drink Burgundy wine. Here is Burghound's note.

"Here there is sufficient reduction to largely mask the underlying fruit that is trimmed in moderate wood. There is more size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm tannic spine on the balanced and beautifully persistent finish that displays almost no youthful austerity. Textbook Bressandes." 92-94 BH

It's a bit glamorous to drink young but that is the essence of what makes Corton Bressandes special. It's like the red version of Henrik Moebitz's Kanzell in a way. Yes I just compared a Burgundy to a German Spatburgunder. Only at Fass Selections! For you point people Allen Meadows gave it a 92-94, which is huge from the notoriously stingy Burghound! It is an accessible wine young. Remember I am also still learning about my portfolio and one thing I've learned is that this wine drinks well young. How?  This can be mixed and matched with the Pernand and the Corton Charlemagne for the deepest deal. I am so lucky to have these wines as the '14 Corton gave me chills.

I also have today, in my humble opinion, the best white wine I've ever sold from Remi, the 2014 Remi Poisot Corton Charlemagne for $109.99 a bottle on a 2-pack. My notes, as I just looked back on them, approach levels of inappropriate vulgarity that I rarely achieve, so these are edited. The first word that comes to mind is complete. This wine is utterly complete in every way. It is solid as a new wave skyscraper in Dubai or NYC. The structure of this wine is rock solid and needs a few years in the cellar to really come into its own. But let me tell you one thing. It is all there. The nose has it all. Hazelnuts, iodine, aged crystallized gouda, green apple skins, minerals on minerals on minerals. This is just the definition of aromatically complex. I cannot imagine how great this will smell with 4-5 years in the cellar. The palate is rocking. Structured, so pure, so sappy, beautiful ripeness while still showing some lean qualities and never ending length. It has top and I mean TOP 1% finesse. To have this much material and be this elegant is why this wine is Grand Cru. The texture is as sexy as you can imagine and the tension between the fruit and acidity is first class. The acid is remarkable and present yet gentle and serene. This is a masterpiece as is not to be missed. This got a 90-93 from Allen Meadows aka Burghound!

These are vineyards that his family gave him (Louis Latour) so this is about as good Corton Charlemagne terroir as there is. This will be allocated. This needs 3-4 years to show well and then can last 10-15 years.

2014 Remi Poisot Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru "En Carradeaux" - $41.99 ($119.97 3-pack) (EXTREMELY LIMITED)

2014 Remi Poisot Grand Cru Corton Bressandes - $84.99 
($239.97 3-pack) (EXTREMELY LIMITED)

2014 Remi Poisot Corton Charlemagne - $114.99 ($219.98 2-pack) (EXTREMELY LIMITED)

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