- One of the Great Dry Wines of Germany
- Obviously One of the Greatest QPRs in the Wine World
- Shocking intensity Yet so Utterly Refined
2016 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken*
- Profound Nose: Elderberry Flowers, Spices, Minerals
- Ridiculous Palate Intensity
- One of the Best Under $30 Wines in the World
"Whoso pulleth out this sword of this stone is the rightwise born king of all England." From the Legend of King Arthur
We all know the legend of King Arthur. First born son of the king, secreted away by Merlin. Merlin placed a sword (Excalibur) in a stone and wrote the above line on it in gold. Arthur drew the sword for use in a tournament and become king. My point? Greatness is within the great no matter the station at present.
Huhnerberg has a similar rags to riches story. While it was known to have the potential for great wines as early as 1897, it was largely fallow as of the 1980s. Why? Because it's so steep that it has to be harvested by hand. And let's face it, the expense of hand harvesting was unjustifiable given the lack of recognition of wines from this area at that time. This is true even though the southern exposure and slatey soils are perfect for making incredible wines.
Fast forward to today. Martin Muellen is the most important producer making wines in Huhnerberg and a legitimate star in Germany with his recent christening by Stephan Rheinhardt of the Wine Advocate. This part of the Mosel is one of the hottest new wine areas in Germany and Martin Muellen has been recognized as one of the great winemakers in Germany (let's not forget he had the highest scoring dry riesling a few years ago for the 2012 of the Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken*). Huhnerberg, despite being almost forgotten, has risen and Martin Muellen is making wines from this vineyard that are so incredible I can hardly describe them. They are among the great white wines of the world. Both of today's wines are under $40 and one is 96 pts and one is 94 pts. These are prices that are so absurd I can't even understand why?
First a word on Martin Müllen's 2016s
These are the most refined, elegant and high class collection from Martin I have ever tasted.For the top wines it's like I was tasting at Keller or Egon Muller. There is a level of refinement in Martin's 16s that is just beyond anything I've ever had from the estate. It's like he made "the leap" except Martin is not a young gun like so many other of the winemakers I work with. But I cannot tell you how excited he was about the 16s and how excited I was about the 16s. They are as stunning a collection as I've ever tasted. The balance of these wines is extraordinary as is the grace and refinement. Precise and vivid minerality and some of the purest fruit one can imagine. These leave you grasping for words. These have class. Serious class. Martin was so happy after the tasting he gave me a bear hug and lifted me up 2-3 feet off the ground. It was a bit unexpected but I went with it as Martin is the nicest person I have ever met on this planet and has an energy and earnestness the likes I've barely seen in other humans. He has a boyish passion for winemaking. It's wonderful to see and it is expressed in his wines. He is a joyous man making joyous wines. You can drink them young, these 16's but listen to Martin below. HEED him. "I also believe in the aging potential of our 2016s, although they already drink perfectly," says Martin Müllen."
First up , I have one of Martin's top dry wines of the vintage. I have sold the 08/09/11/12/15 and nowThat is the 2016 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spatlese Trocken* for $39.99 on a 4-Pack. It got 96 points from Stephan Rheinhardt. This is one of the great dry wines of Germany. The 09/11 are both drinking out of their minds right now but, even those wines while great, are not even in the same class as this wine. Martin's top 2-3 dry wines in 2016 are as refined as only at the estate of Klaus Peter Keller. It has that effortlessness. The leap Martin has made combined with the refinement of the vintage has vaulted this bottling to the top. It's just incredible. Elderberry flowers, spices, minerals, deep profound aromas that are ripe and so intense on the nose. Stunning minerality and classic Huhnerberg perfume. Shocking intensity yet so utterly refined. Amazing balance and serenity. Complex as all can be on the nose and even more complex on the palate. I swished this in my mouth for a minute and it gained in complexity while I was swishing. Mineral, citrus, spice, peach, salinity and an endless finish that builds and builds like the force. The acidity is perfect and brings one to attention, but the acid/mineral/fruit balance is something else. Insane inner mouth perfume. Elegant, juicy and insane building citrus mineral finish. Below is Stephan Rheinhardt's 96 POINT review. I have what I have and then they are gone.
96 POINTS STEPHAN RHEINHARDT
"From the first and second terrace with vines ranging from ten to over 100 years old, the 2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese Trocken * is super pure and smoky on the deep and complex nose that displays a coolish stone fruit aroma perfectly intermixed with aristocratic flinty notes of crushed rocks. Round, deep and complex on the palate, this is a full-bodied, powerful, very mineral and concentrated Riesling with fine tannins and a firmly structured, salty-piquant and aromatic finish. Although this is a terribly complex wine, it reveals great finesse and elegance, whereas the finish is crystalline, salty and externe stimulating. This is an excitingly deep, ripe, complex and tensioned Riesling with great purity and finesse. The finish is very long, but the wine never loses its finesse and balance. Gorgeous! From low-yielding vines that deliver 40 hectoliters per hectare by nature. Tasted February 2018."2025 - 2040." 96 POINTS STEPHAN RHEINHARDT
Up next I have an insane bottle of dry Riesling. It's so inexpensive for what it is. It should be $50-$60-$70 a bottle but today the 2016 Martin Müllen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken* can he had for $29.99 a bottle on a 4-Pack. This got 94 points from Stephan Rheinhardt and is $29.99. I will use an expression I hate now. Let that sink in. This wine is magic. Miraculous. Can you tell I adore Martin's wines and think they are so undervalued I cannot contain myself. There are two people from the list I've met in real life who don't get Müllen. Yes, I still talk to them. This is all stones, stones and more stones. And smoke and it is so filigreed yet so intense as well you don't know what to do after you sniff and sip it. It's so slatey on the nose and through all that smoke and stone it's mega mega juicy. Yes a nose can be juicy. The palate is insane. So stoney. So mineral, so refined, so lithe, so tender. Huge flavor impact and intensity with unreal acidity. My goodness this is so refined. It's so clean and so pure. How is this $29.99?? I don't know. I don't ask. The purity is just drop dead. So textured yet so stark with stones and minerals. Every wine Martin made in 2016 is worth your attention. The finish is just so winding and elegant yet ramps up in intensity. It's so delicate. Crystalline. Again. How is this $29.99? Well it is. You've seen all the prices go up yet Müllen somehow stays in the same range. How long will this last? Below is the 94 pt Rheinhardt review.
94 POINTS STEPHAN RHEINHARDT
"The 2016 Riesling Kröver Paradies Spätlese Trocken is incredibly pure and stony on the nose that smells like an active quarry and is full of sparkling stones. That's as smoky as smoky Riesling can be-love it. Delicate and filigreed on the palate, this is a silky textured Riesling with lovely refined acidity and texture. The finish is crystalline, pure and very salty. A terrific dry Riesling!" 94 Points Stephan Rheinhardt
2016 Martin Muellen Trarbacher Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken* $41.99 ($159.96 4-pack)
2016 Martin Muellen Krover Paradies Spatlese Trocken* - $31.99 ($119.96 4-pack)
No comments:
Post a Comment