Oh Boy Did I Mess Up - Gilles Berlioz Sold Out of 2 of His 2017 Roussanes Already - He's Arrived As the Next Great Non-Burgundy White Winemaker in France

"Nuts."
Lyle Fass and Brigadier General Anthony C. McAuliffe

The Darned French Are Buying These Wines Very Quickly
 - Chez l'Odette, Les Christines and Mon Ami Are Sold Out
 - Gilles Berlioz Is Becoming the Next Non-Burgundy Star 
 - In the Class of Roches Neuves, Guiberteau, Simone, Ganevat
 - Prices Are Still Very Low but That Won't Continue

2017 Chignin-Bergeron "Les Filles"
 - One of the Great Wines of France That Is Only Known to Our List in the US
 - Goosebump-Inducing Great Nose - Remarkably Layered
 - Sick Concentration on the Palate - Apricots, Hazelnuts
 - Opulent Yet Graceful with Incredible Finesse
 - A Better Wine Than '16 Beaucastel Roussanne VV ($120-$175)

2017 Chignin-Bergeron "Les Friponnes"
 - Psychotic Aromatics (Fruit, Exotic Spices)
 - Crashing Wave of Roussanne Goodness on the Palate
 - But Balanced with Acidity and Gorgeous Alpine Minerality
 - Just a Joyous Life Experience to Drink This
 - Crazy Value at $29.99

The story of great and famous French white wines is mostly the story of Burgundy.  
 - The Loire has Roches Neuves, Guiberteau, Vatan and the Cotats
 - The South Has Simone
 - The Rhone Has Chave, Sorrel, Gripa and Gonon

Unfortunately, Gilles Berlioz has joined that list much more quickly than I expected.  This is not to
say that the wines were not great but rather that I assumed that it would take the French a couple of more years to figure this out.  As Brigadier General Anthony C. McAuliffe replied to the German demand of surrender during the Battle of the Bulge, "Nuts."

The good news is that I have a small amount of two of these genius whites today.  These would cost $70+ and $120+ if they were fully priced for quality.  There are, make no mistake, vinous works of art. In 2017 Berlioz made wines that resemble the brilliant 15s melded with the 14s but have a bit more opulence, incredible finesse and terrific acids. It's an amazing vintage for Gilles.

Up first I have maybe the best under $40 white wine from anywhere in the world. I am humbled and honored to sell the 2017 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de la Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Les Filles" for $39.99 on a 4-pack. A steal. Theft. Straight up theft. Fruit, dry extract, terrific acidity, well-defined structure and incredible soil imprint are just some of what this wine has to offer. The 2017 Les Filles is a SUPERSTAR. I mean a superstar.  How do I go about describing this wine? I'll try.  Insane. I never mention color but this is deep and golden. Striking.

The nose is alpine clean, insanely herbal, but also rich, deep and complex. Ridiculous. Elegant and haunting as well as it is so layered and nuanced. Goosebump inducing. There is insane fruit complexity. Guava, pear, peach, apricot,  just insane. Wet earth and insane earth/mineral complexity. Best aromas of any Berlioz 17s. It almost smells like really fine white Burgundy. I know, Roussanne wtf? But it does. Honey, caramelized sugar. What a nose!

The palate has rich fruit but more in a dry extract type of way than a rich, obvious way, top notch finesse and incredible delineation of flavors I bet due to the elevated acidity. A melange of vivid apricot, honey and hazelnut on a bed of clay/limestone only begins to describe it. The dried fruit and flowers are just out of sight. Huge spice, honey and grilled almonds as well. The concentration is Norwegian God level. But it remains so graceful with that extra 2017 finesse and opulence. Amazing density and complexity. Like whoa. Like really whoa. Yet it also remains true to its origins. Wow this is complex. Balance is extraordinary as is the purity. Nose makes you think it's going to be one way and palate is totally not what one expects. Lean, mineral, chiseled bit also round and opulent. Plays off those two aspects amazingly. Balanced like only the best can be. The combo of stuninngly pure fruit and whiplash acidity is so compelling. Fruit is there but what poise, complexity and length. The mineral expression is just beautiful. It's perfect mineral expression. This is something else. This is a great wine and I cannot believe that is only $39.99. This is a better wine in quality than '16 Beaucastel Roussanne VV for $130-$260 and obviously a much better value. This wine is maybe the freshest Roussanne I've ever had with dynamic freshness and acidity that is just so compelling. The length is crazy and the finish just keeps going. It is so complex and always changing. One glass was not enough and I had to retaste 2 or 3 times to believe how good it was an check if I was not bugging. I was not bugging. The wine is that great.

Up next I've got a brand new wine from Berlioz and it's unreal. The 2017 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de la Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Les Friponnes" can be had for $29.99 on a 4-Pack. This is from a limestone vineyard.  The nose is intense. As is the deep color. Golden like a sunset with a touch of amber. The color of Roussanne is always spectacular. Man is this nose intense. Big flowers and tropical fruit with exotic spices. So aromatic. So intense. Dried apricot, orange and almost crystallized kumquat. It's so precise yet wafting and intense. Really dig it.

The flavor impact on this wine will blow your mind. It's mischievous in a way as the flavor impact is not subtle. It's still precise but compared to "Les Fripons" and "Les Filles" it is not as subtle as those wines are. This is the debut vintage of this wine and is just insane. I think I like it more than Mon Ami, which this will be replacing in 2017 as the Mon Ami is sold out at the estate. This is even leaner than the Mon Ami. The acid on this wine is bonkers as is all the acid in all of his 2017s. Think of these like 2015 but with more acid and a tick less alcohol. It's as intense in the mouth. Precise yet round as well with huge flavor impact. This is not subtle. It crashes on your palate like a wave of Roussanne and has terrific dry extract and precision. It's an once opulent but then your palate is cleansed with all that acidity.  Incredible alpine minerality all throughout the palate. An unreal debut.

I know many of you might be a bit confused by the name as it is so similar to the "Les Fripons" which is higher end. The difference it actually quite striking and fun. Translated, "Les Friponnes" means the "mischievous girls." "Les Fripons" means the mischievous boys." Now that is a subtle difference in spelling but the difference in the two cuvees is striking.


No wonder these wines are this profound as Gilles and his wife Christine treat their vineyards with immense respect. Biodynamic and organic since 2005/2006 and in the winery they do minimal intervention with low sulfur. These wines are made with a care, dedication and love rarely seen. They are always working and always in the vineyards. We walked the vineyards for an hour. One thing I noticed this time is the natural wind that is ever present. Not Mistral but it is very windy. Now if you are thinking about the great whites of St. Joseph, CDP or Hermitage one needs to recalibrate one's palate as these wines have a dynamism and natural acidity that is unique to Chignin-Bergeron. Maybe that is why I am somewhat obsessed with them.

2017 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de la Partage) Chignin-Bergeron

"Les Filles" $41.99 ($159.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)

2017 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de la Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Les Friponnes" - $31.99 ($119.96 4-Pack) (LIMITED)