Tuesday, January 10, 2023

LIMITED LIST - 98 Point Riesling GK, Under $35 - Stefan Steinmetz Strikes Again

 Stefan Steinmetz

- One of the Smartest and Most Knowledgeable Winemakers in Europe

 - One of the Greatest Tasters I've Ever Met

 - One of My Oldest Friends in Wine

 - He's Been Snatching Up The Top Small Vineyards in the Mosel

 - Style Is Absolutely Clear, Crystalline, Jaw Dropping Masterpieces That Perfectly Express the Vineyards

 - Drinkable Now But Will Age for Decades

 - 1 100 Pointer, 2 99s and a 98 in 2019 from Stuart Piggot plus today’s 98 pointer.


2019 Gunther Steinmetz Wintricher Geierslay Auslese GK

 - 98 Points (Stuart Piggott)

 - “Totally seductive nose" (SP)

 - "all manner of exotic fruits but primarily pineapple and papaya." (SP)

 - "Mind-blowing concentration" (SP) 

 - "mineral brilliance" (SP)

 - "Just keeps pumping the exotic fruit out" (SP)

 - "very long, super fresh finish." (SP)

We've done a great job selling (and you buying) the wines of Stefan Steinmetz so he gave me a little gift from his cellar. 90 bottles of a 2019 Auslese GK that got 98 points. GK means Gold Capsule and it's basically an Auslese with some botrytized grapes. In this case, "clean botrytus."


I'll do my best to allocate but please be chill if you get cut back.


The 2019 Gunther Steinmetz Wintricher Geierslay GK for $34.99 a bottle NET got 98 points from Stuart Piggott and his review is below. Below that is a refresher course in the history of Fass Selections and Steinmetz. 


“Totally seductive nose with all manner of exotic fruits but primarily pineapple and papaya. Mind-blowing concentration and mineral brilliance on the palate. Just keeps pumping the exotic fruit out at the very long, super fresh finish. Drink or hold." - 98 Points, Stuart Piggott


Stefan Steinmetz - My Brother from Another Mother

Today's producer is my brother from another mother and one of my closest friends in the world. We have been through some stuff. But our bond and friendship is stronger than ever now. 


I wrote the eulogy/blog post about Stefan's father's passing. Stefan asked me write it because he said he couldn't imagine anyone else writing it. It was my honor. Günther Steinmetz was a great man. I was privileged and lucky to meet him, taste with him and enjoy moments with him. He spoke no English but as many know the language of wine is universal. He was a great taster, farmer and winemaker. He also had dozens of German expressions about life and wine that are so funny yet also so searingly accurate. Without Günther Steinmetz we would not have Stefan Steinmetz. His name is on every bottle and likely always will be. He was a not just a winegrower but also a farmer of things like potatoes and the like. Back then in the Mosel you could not make a living as a grape grower winemaker without some other gig like farming wheat, chickens, pigs, and potatoes. But the older wines I've tasted from Günther have been sublime. Classic very old school classic Mosel. 


From Friend to Advisor to Supplier

I've been friends with Stefan for over a decade. You know when you meet someone and you are just blown away by them? Stefan is one of those people. Brilliant. Incredibly knowledgeable. An incredible, incredible taster. He can tell the gender of a fly that landed on a single vine from a casual sniff from the glass. He also has a Kobe Bryant like competitive edge and wants to be the best like no other winemaker I've ever met. I was one of the first people to buy his wines back in 2005.


Sammie Steinmetz

Sammie is the engine that runs the entire Steinmetz operation and one of my favorite people in the world. I've known her as long as I've known Stefan. She is from Alabama and fell in love with Stefan when she was in the US Sir Force and visited the estate on a day trip. It was love at first sight. She moved to Germany right after. She is hilarious with her dry and acerbic sense of humor and to describe her role at the estate is a bit difficult. But, she runs the show. She deals with all the administrative duties, emails, and pretty much anything that needs to be done. She's in the vineyards and the cellar. She organized all my zoom sessions with Stefan. She is one my closest friends in the world and just a wonderful person. She and Stefan are the best couple. Also for me, when I visit Germany it's nice to have an American there which makes me feel very comfortable. She speaks fluent German and when I need a word that Stefan doesn't know she is right there to fill in the gap. Also we can gossip about American culture. She is an integral to the estate as Stefan and she always called me "Fass." "Hey Fass, what's going on!" When I hear that "Fass" I know I'm home.


Stefan's's been through a number of importers and I've advised him along the way, introducing him to one of my great friends in wine. The late, great Ned Benedict at Grand Cru Selections (Roulot, Chave, Lafon, etc.) was one. I always wanted to import Stefan's wines but we were a lot smaller when he last chose a US importer. 


Stefan's wines got huge scores in 2019 and he's now pretty clearly a top 10 winemaker in Germany. He wanted an importer who could tell his story in the US and sell the wines to wine lovers who will appreciate them. A lot of them are very small production wines and he doesn't want just anyone drinking them. It's understandable given the back breaking work that is involved in growing wines on 50+ degree slopes.


And so, after over a decade, our partnership was born.


The 2019 Vintage

Stefan Steinmetz has arrived as the next winemaker you need to care about in Germany in a very significant way. In 2019 he had "the Leap", as we call it at Fass Selections. He made wines better than in any other vintage before but not only that - he has leveled up. He is now a top 10 German wine producer for Riesling. Dry and sweet. Stuart Piggot, who has been tasting German wines longer than almost any critic working and has written enormously respected books about the topic has now anointed him. Stuart dropped absolutely bananas scores for Stefan in 2019 which Stefan says is the best vintage since 2001. Pigott dropped a 100 for the 2019 Neumagener Rosengartchen Von Den Terrassen Riesling. To get 100 points from any critic is a massive massive accomplishment. Relax! We don't have that wine today. We only have a 97 Point GG for $29.99 today. 


2019 Gunther Steinmetz Wintricher Geierslay Riesling Auslese GK - $34.99 NET 

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