Wednesday, March 15, 2023

List Favorite Domaine Berlancourt's Top 2 Bourgogne Blancs - VERY Limited

 2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc "Cuvee Les Champans" 

 - Blind, I Would Guess Grand Cru Chevalier Monthrachet or Puligny 1er Cru "Folatieres."

 - Micro Low Yields in the Lalou Bize-Leroy Range

 - The Ultimate Ringer at a High End Burgundy Tasting 

 - Nose: Psychotic

 - Meyer Lemon with Intense, Clear and Airy Minerality

 - So Deep and Enveloping Like an Ocean Breeze

 - Endless Aromas and Aromatic Depth

 - Palate: Massive and Intense

 - Nimble, Concentrated and Delicate

 - Classy and Easily Grand Cru Cru Level

 - Insane Structure, Density and Concentration

 - Fleshy Fruit but also Pithy - 18 Bottles


2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc "Derrière Frétille"

- The Estate Says It's Better Than the Champans

- I Have 6 Bottles


Most of you have heard the story of long time list favorite Domaine Berlancourt. It's actually a hotel with Bourgogne Blanc terroir that they tend like it's 1er Cru and Grand Cru terroir. It is one of the best examples of "hand over land" I've seen in Burgundy. These are wines that every Burgundy lover should have in their cellar. They are spectacular, great values and also terrific wines to bring as ringers to a Burgundy tasting.  Today it's the top two cuvees in the very limited 2019 vintage.


The news at Berlancourt is that the father has retired and the son is now fully in charge. I think
this is for the best and the wines will only get better. The son is a serious winemaker and truly no nonsense type of guy and is 100% dedicated to his craft. I cannot imagine how good the wines will be in the future. Also I will miss the father's incredible sweater.


The Wines

The 2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc "Les Champans" for $79.99 a bottle NET as good a wine as 19 can deliver. At Berlancourt they have their own hierarchy. The Champans is their Grand Cru and after tasting the 19, I think it can compete with a large number of Burgundy Grand Cru whites. It has the depth, length (oh man does it have the length), complexity and richness of at least 85% of the Grand Cru while burgs I've tasted. It also has that dramatic and grandiose quality. It's just a wine that not only transcends the appellation but it's a wine that wants to remake the appellation. After drinking a bottle of this over 3 days it really made me think hard about the appellation system. It generally gets its right but how can a wine that is labeled Bourgogne Blanc taste like 85% of Burgundy Grand Cru Burgs? 


I have never encountered a wine quite like this in my career. Almost 20 years now. Blind, I would guess Grand Cru Chevalier Monthrachet or Puligny 1er Cru "Folatieres." It is from yields of around 15hl/ha and aged in 100% new oak for 2 years. Just an incredible wine. 


Huge nose. Vanilla extract, not woody at all but that good vanilla of super high end elite whites. Then herbals, Meyer lemon with intense, clear and airy minerality that is so deep and enveloping like an ocean breezeApple spice starts to develop after some air. Endless aromas and aromatic depth.  On Day 2 it was just insane. stunning nose. Vanilla extract aromas and so much coconut. Man this is so good, so airy with superb minerality. Just gorgeous and vibrates in its own plane. 


Palate is massive and intense but then so nimble, concentrated and delicate. My godthis is classy and easily Grand Cru levelInsane structure, density and concentration. Mega mega juicy. Thunderous. So pure. No hard edges.  Unreal finesse. Such fleshy fruit but also pithy. Everything is in perfect proportion. Just gets better and better with air.  On day 2, palate has perfect balance, prodigious concentration and is so sappy and dense, yet so light it's super elegant. Big and suave at the same time. It's grand cru all the way. 


The finish is endless. Just silky and stunning. Stunning finish. The finish begins where you think it is going to end. Just a masterpiece. Truly a genius and incomprehensible wine that should not be a Bourgogne Blanc. Best Champans ever and the finish is eternal. Just never ends and has perfect dissipation. I only have 18 bottles but more wine is on the way next week including the 2019 Equinces!


There is a new cuvee that I only have 6 bottles of called the 2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc “Derrière Fretille”. It is $84.99 NET and he thinks it’s better than the Les Champans. I don’t know anything about this wine and all I know it’s better than Champans. Whoever gets this please drink one with me! 


2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc "Les Champans" - $79.99 NET 


2019 Domaine Berlancourt Bourgogne Blanc “Derrière Fretille - $84.99 NET 

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