Thursday, August 21, 2014

You Asked for a New Star in Beaujolais - I Deliver for Under $30

Is Moulin A Vent the best Cru Beaujolais? Richard Rottiers thinks so. 


I sold you Foillard.  
I sold you Metras.
And you said, "This is great, great prices,  I'll take 4 bottles but I've seen these before.  I want a new Fass Selections Beaujolais that is of superstar quality."

My response was that I'd dig deeper into Beaujolais and see what I could do - these guys are not soliciting me with E-Mails from France nor are they ambushing me at Charles de Gaulle when I arrive for my visits.

Well - today, I'm happy to say that I think I've found your man; an incredible winemaker making wines that are absolutely stunning and long lived.  For the points crowd, the 2012 version of this wine got 94 pts from Neal Martin in the Wine Advocate, and 2013 is a far superior vintage in Beaujolais. Today's wine is just a work of art. I am thrilled to be the only American wine retailer offering the 2013 Richard Rottiers Moulin A Vent "Dernier Souffle" which can be had for as little as $29.99 a 4-pack.  From 60+ year old vines in granite soils this is a monster with finesse. One of the more unique noses out there with candied fruits and figs. It has stunning aromatics; as aromatic as a wine from Beaujolais I have ever had. The balance between the soft tannins and gentle acidity is scary good. The palate is intense as Moulin A Vent can be with waves of ripe cherry and black currant fruit. The finish is long, winding and very persistent. This is a beautiful wine.  This is an easy Fass 4-pack plan, which is drink one with a long decant and then hide the remaining 3 for 10-15 years. 

Richard Rottiers is a 3rd generation Chablisien (if that is a word) who moved to Beaujolais because he was intrigued by the quality and potential in Moulin-A-Vent. He worked in the Cotes de Ventoux and then at Chateau Thivin before he started his own Domaine in 2007. It is only 3.15 HA which is small but right in Fass Selections' sweet spot. Most of his vines are between 40-80 years old. He vinifies traditionally and uses some CO2. He also bottles according to the lunar calendar. He is, if not full organic by now, will be in a year or so. In short, this guy is pushing the envelope. 

He really believes that Moulin-A-Vent has the potential to be the best Cru of the ten in Beaujolais. Moulin A Vent is named after a windmill and is one of the more famous Beaujolais Crus. Situated near Chenas, it is considered the Cru that can last the longest, with the most body and concentration, which is why Rottiers thinks it can be the best. But people say it is the least typical because of this. I think MAV can be the the best as well in the right hands and Rottiers Moulin-A-Vent is a game-changer. The wines are all 100% Gamay. 

Another interesting fact is that in Moulin à Vent, there is a high level of Manganese in the soil which, in large enough concentrations, can be toxic to grapes. What happens in Moulin à Vent is that the Manganese does not kill the vines but causes something called Chlorosis which severely limits yields through altering the vines' metabolism.

The consensus on Beaujolais vintages is vastly different in Beaujolais than it is here. Here 2012 gets grouped with Burgundy and while being a good vintage is not like 2012 in Burgundy, which is downright criminal it is so good. 2013 is better in Beaujolais than in Burgundy from what I have tasted. But stateside people think 2012 is better. Not the case. 

One final note. Richard has a somewhat dark sense of humor and "Dernier Souffle" means last breath, as this wine is from a plot next to a graveyard. There's that French sense of humor for ya!


These will be shipped in the November shipment.

2013 Richard Rottiers Moulin A Vent "Dernier Souffle"- $31.99 
($119.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)


No comments:

Post a Comment