Man, you say, imagine being able to buy wines that incredible for a song before anyone knew that they were great.
Well...you can today.
Selling Northern Rhone whites (other than Chave) is like selling Van Gogh's before he became famous. There ain't much money in it. It's a heck of a lot easier to sell White Burgundy, Champagne (and even German Riesling). But the values are just too compelling to ignore.
Yeah, yeah, I know the vast majority of them are just too rich and obnoxiously honeyish. And most of them struggle with acidic balance. But there are a few producers (growing in number) that have figured it out and man oh man, they are making wines as stunning as anything in the world at a
Today I am offering two of my favorite ageable Northern Rhone whites from, who I think, is one of the masters of this art, the estate of Bernard and Fabrice Gripa. When i visited I chatted up Fabrice Gripa about style and ageability and he opened up two older versions of the two wines I am offering today. First up is the 2014 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Peray Blanc "Les Figuiers" which can be had for as little as $36.99 a 4-pack today. This is one of the best wines of the appellation easily and is an incredibly high quality wine. Fabrice, earlier this February opened up a 2000 for me and it was eye opening. It was beautiful with a silken texture, exotic flavors and wonderful interesting minerality and enough acidity to keep it together. The level of earthiness and minerality was so distinctive and unlike anything I have ever tasted. It also still has enough structure that it could age and improve for many years. All I was thinking of how it would be so delicious, even more delicious with 5 more years of age. Yes, you heard me right, more age. With the right food this could be a heavenly combo. It is amazing to me how it aged so well from a vintage that is good but not great. But in a great vintage for Northern Rhone whites how would it age? Enter 2014 The 2014 is an amazing wine and wine I want to sell. The yellow color is the first thing to stand out. The nose is a mix of citrus and peanut oil, spice and dried fruits. It has a rich, deep and complex nose and on the palate it is rich and silky with chewy depth and man does this linger. It is very stylish and classy in only the way that the best wines can be. The oak is there but so well integrated like it would be on a great young white Burg and it has astounding mineral length. It stains your palate. It is elegant and has incredible intensity but also is knit so finely on your palate that you could swear this costs 3-4 times more than it is. It is a blend of 70% Roussanne from vines planted in 1960-62 and 30% Marsanne from vines planted in 1946 and the 50's. They are vinified apart. It is raised in 20% new and 80% 1-4 year old oak for 11 months. The first vintage was 1997. This is a beautiful wine and I cannot recommend it enough. It is almost a red wine in white wines clothes and this is not an obvious wine but very subtle. One of the more cerebral wines I have offered.
Up next is the big boy and one of the best whites of the Northern Rhone.The 2014 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph Blanc "Le Berceau" for as little as 54.99 on a 4-pack. When I was tasting with Fabrice I told him about how Northern Rhone white is a hard sell in the States and its because people do not know the glorious effect age has on these wines. This is an insane bottle of 100% Marsanne, which excelled in 2014 as it did in 2013, maybe if not better. The oldest vines are from the 20s while the average age is 62 years. It is made the same way as the St. Peray in that it sees 20% new oak and the. 1-4 year old oak. Fabrice opened the 98 Le Berceau Blanc and it blew my mind and reminded me what can be very good in its youth can be profound as it ages. Especially if it is dominantly Marsanne. It had terrific intensity and an incredibly kaleidoscopic minerally nose. Unforgettable minerality like a periodic table. The palate has an unreal juiciness and freshness that belies its aged character. It's rieslingesque in that it is so fresh and fruity yet so secondary and mineral. I gave a detailed note on the 98 because the 14 is from a better vintage, Fabrice is a better winemaker and the vibes are older. I drank it at 17 years of age which was perfect but it could go 3-4 more years. For my money this is the best value in Northern Rhone white that is not Chave Blanc. The 2014, has an incredible nose of yellow fruits, roasted nuts and slightly roasted peaches. Delightful. If you keep sniffing you get more suggestions of aromas. It's young but it's deep. The palate has terrific richness balanced by perfect acids. Cooked citrus fruits and amazing intensity on the peacocks tail of a finish. The texture is silky, suave and unlike any of the wines I sell. In a word, brilliant. This is limited. This will stun all of your wine friends at blind tastings in 10-15 years.
Both of these wines are NOT available in America and haven't been for years.
2014 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Peray "Les Figuiers" - $38.99 ($143.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
2014 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph Blanc "Le Berceau" - $57.99 ($219.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
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