Hand Over Land: Two Rare 2013 PYCMs That Prove That Great Winemaker can Make Great Wine from less Appreciated Terroir

PYCM is the current chosen one in Burgundy and with good reason. The style here is racy as they

come with his model being Riesling. Low alcohol, high acid and gobs of minerality shows PYCM knows a thing or two about Riesling. He also knows his sites extremely well down to the leaf and grape cluster. Detail oriented winemakers make the best wine. I also love him and his operation because he is not an appellation snob. From Montrachet all the way down to Bourgogne Blanc he gives every bottle the attention it deserves and nothing gets slighted. Every bottle I've had drinks higher than it should based solely on the vineyard classification. I love that he also makes wines in not so popular appellations. That is the sign of a true Burgundian, They love all terroir. And these bargain value style PYCM's age. Not as long as the Meursault Perrieres or Montrachet but longer than you'd expect. I offered a while back some of his Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru "En Caradeaux" and today I have two more off the beaten track appellations made better than their "pedigree" would suggest remotely possible, by Pierre-Yves. Both of these wines are from the 2013 vintage which at the village and regional level is drinking superbly at the moment with air. I did offer the 2012's of these wines last year. The '13's are a step up in precision and depth but also have higher acid and need more time to breathe.

First up is the 2013 PYCM Rully Les Cailloux, for as little as $34.99 on a 4-pack, which is absolutely delicious in 2012.  Hedonistic but with a lovely stoney edge. Amazing purity of citrus fruits, great intensity and vividness to the fruit with crunchy and very present acidity. Compact like 2012 tends to be. And this will age for 4-7 years. Easy. What a wine. Salty and sappy on the long finish. This is limited and very allocated and I guarantee will be the best Rully you have ever had.

Next up is the 2013 PYCM Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru "En Caradeaux", which can be had for $37.99 on a 4-pack.  I was shocked to find out he made this, as I import the very fine red version by Remi Poisot. The site is facing east and is on a very steep slope. The soil is not very rocky and more sandy. You will not believe how structured this wine is for $38 a bottle. High acids and voluminous 2013 fruit make this a treat and the most Riesling-esque of any PYCM I have tasted so far. Also aromatically this is stunning and has almost a perfume-like nose. Amazing delineation of flavors and purity. Please, I am begging you, leave some for me as this is the coolest, geekiest PYCM wine I have tasted.

2013 PYCM Rully "Les Cailloux" - $37.99 ($139.96 4-pack) 

2013 PYCM Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru "En Caradeaux" - $39.99 ($151.96 4-pack)