Let's talk about Roussanne shall we? Normally it's the main grape in Chateauneuf de Pape Blanc, and sometimes its used in the Northern Rhone to buffer the dominant Marsanne. There are some pure Roussanne cuvees in the North but it is rare. Beaucastel makes the most famous one, perhaps in the world, the Roussanne Vielles Vignes, which is a great wine, but you will pay for it ... dearly. They sometimes make it in California and I've heard there are some good ones, but they've never crossed my path. Heavy, plodding low acid, alcoholic, over-oaked ones have. But in general it's not on many wine lovers' must lists.
They also happen to cultivate Roussanne in Chignin, which is a small town in Savoie, and for me, this is the spot for the best Roussanne in the world. After phylloxera destroyed many of the vineyards at the turn of the century, Gilles Berlioz told me, they planted Roussanne because it was around and resistant. As a wine lover I am very glad that this decision was made as the Roussanne that comes from these mountainous and steep vineyards is a vinous elixir like nothing else in the world of wine. With apologies to my friends in the Rhone. It's much cooler and the wines here express a cool climate perfectly even though it's normally a warm climate grape. That, to me is the perfect formula. The Roussanne of the Savoie, and in particular, Chignin, are some of the best white wines on earth.
Roussanne also has a spirit animal. His name is Gilles Berlioz of the estate Domaine de la Partage (formerly called Berlioz but as of 15 it is Domaine de Le Partage). This man has the golden touch with Roussanne. It's magic in his hands. He makes four different cuvees and for me, these are some of the most exciting, best value, highest quality, insane qpr wines in the world. If these wines were white Burgundies they'd cost hundreds of dollars a bottle. But it's Roussanne from Savoie so both wines today are under $40 and one is even under $30. Gilles is a genius of the highest degree and he is getting better each year as a winemaker. There are, make no mistake, vinous works of art. In 2016, he made wines, that resemble the brilliant 14s but have a bit more ripeness, incredible finesse and terrific acids. The finesse is really the star in 2015.
Up first is the 2016 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Mon Ami" for as little as $27.99 on a 4-pack. The wine is 100% Roussanne. The wine is insane. The super complex nose really jumps out at you. All types of craziness going on. Yellow fruits. Flowers. Intensely mineral. Herbal alpine goodness is in there big time. Also super clean aromas of fresh hay. Only in Savoie do you get aromas like this. Like a fresh stream on a perfect spring Savoie afternoon. Then the palate with its exquisite texture, explosive fruit, amazing focus, and utmost finesse will seduce anyone. The mineral fruit interplay is just amazing. The fruit complexity on all of Gilles' Roussanes are what stands out the most to me and makes them so unique. Apricot, persimmon, peach, tangerine. All in a sea of minerals and acid. The layering here is something else. It's rich yet insanely balanced by high falootin' acids. The cleanliness and freshness are unreal. This has texture like a $150 White Burgundy. The elegance and surprisingly taut structure are insane for a wine of this price. It is from 32 year old vines and an introduction into Gilles' mastery of Roussanne. I absolutely adore Chignin-Bergeron and this tiny pocket of Alpine mountain goodness makes some of the most compelling Roussanne in the world. I'm a weirdo but I'd rather drink Roussanne from here rather than almost anyone in the Rhone. Much more of a Marsanne-Rhone fan. The Roussanne from Chignin-Bergeron is very special. The cooler climate really help the grape express itself and retain acidity. This wine is just a ridiculous value. I've cut my margins as I want as many people to try this as possible. Gilles hit it out of the park in 2016.
Up next I have maybe the best under $40 white wine from anywhere in the world. I could charge $125 and it would be worth it. But I also want to sell wine. I also have a business to run. But man, if this wine is not a stupid value then I quit. It has the elegance and complexity of high end Loire White such as Clos Romans or White Burgundy, like a Jobard Meursault 1er Cru. It has a weightlessness along with so much richness and finesse the whole time you are drinking this wine you think you are drinking the world's greatest wine. It's absolutely compellin
g. It's hard to top the '15 but the '16 Les Filles is a masterpiece. It is just the greatest Roussanne ever. I can't think of any Loire, German Riesling or White Burgundy for $36.99 a bottle that comes close to this. Today I am humbled and honored to sell the Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de la Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Les Filles" for $36.99 on a 4-pack. A steal. Theft. Straight up theft. Compare that for the 2014 at $48 and the 2011 at $53. That's 3-tiers for ya! Fruit, dry extract, terrific acidity, well-defined structure and incredible soil imprint are just some of what this wine has to offer. The 2016 Les Filles is a SUPERSTAR. I mean a superstar. There is so much demand in France for these that they sell out as soon as they are bottled. Which is always at the beginning of the summer according to the lunar calendar. How do I go about describing this wine? I'll try. Insane. I never mention color but this is deep and golden. Striking. The nose is alpine clean, insanely herbal, but also rich, deep and complex. Ridiculous. Elegant and haunting as well as it is so layered and nuanced. Goosebump inducing. There is insane fruit complexity. Guava, pear, peach, apricot, just insane. Wet earth and insane earth/mineral complexity. Best aromas of any Berlioz 16s. It almost smells like really fine white Burgundy. I know, Roussanne wtf? But it does. Honey, caramelized sugar. What a nose! The palate has rich fruit but more in a dry extract type of way than a rich, obvious way, top notch finesse and incredible delineation of flavors I bet due to the elevated acidity. A melange of vivid apricot, honey and hazelnut on a bed of clay/limestone only begins to describe it. The concentration is Norwegian God level. But it remains so graceful with that extra 2016 finesse. Amazing density and complexity. Like whoa. Like really whoa. Yet is also remains true to its origins. Wow this is complex. Balance is extraordinary as is the purity. Nose makes you think it's going to be one way and palate is totally not what one expects. Lean, mineral, chiseled. Fruit is there but what poise, complexity and length. The mineral expression is just beautiful. This is something else. This is a great wine and I cannot believe that is only $36.99. This is a better wine in quality than '16 Beaucastel Roussanne VV for $120-$175 and obviously a much better value. This wine is maybe the freshest Roussanne I've ever had with dynamic freshness and acidity that is just so compelling. The length is crazy and the finish just keeps going. It is so complex and always changing. One glass was not enough and I had to retaste 2 or 3 times to believe how good it was an check if I was not bugging. I was not bugging. The wine is that great.
No wonder these wines are this profound as Gilles and his wife Christine treat their vineyards with immense respect. Biodynamic and organic since 2005/2006 and in the winery they do minimal intervention with low sulfur. These wines are made with a care, dedication and love rarely seen. They are always working and always in the vineyards. We walked the vineyards for an hour. One thing I noticed this time is the natural wind that is ever present. Not Mistral but it is very windy. Now if you are thinking about the great whites of St. Joseph, CDP or Hermitage one needs to recalibrate one's palate as these wines have a dynamism and natural acidity that is unique to Chignin-Bergeron. Maybe that is why I am somewhat obsessed with them.
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