La Brocarde
- 2013 the Middle of the Great Troika of Vintages (10,13,15)
- 2013 the Middle of the Great Troika of Vintages (10,13,15)
- The Nose Soars Out of the Glass
- The Palate Has the Balanced Power of a Great Gevrey or RSV
Elotins 2015
- Insane Value at $42.99 from the Incredible 2015 Vintage
- Incredible Succulent Tiny Berry Fruit, Fantastic Balance
First of all if it was not for 2015 everyone would be clamoring for 2013 Cote Rotie. It is a brilliant vintage and a small notch below 2010. In 25 years doing 13, 15, 10 comparison tastings will be fun. And boy do the top 13s need time. A lot of time. But some of the top cuvees are coming out now (Barge earlier this month) and they are as impressive as one would think. None was made in 2014 so the 15 will not be bottled for 2-3 more years.
We had lunch and Christophe served the 2013 Christophe Billon Côte-Rotie La Brocarde for $59.99 on a 3-pack. This is very limited obviously. What a wine. It was decanted for 3 hours in anticipation of this lunch. The nose is so complex it just soars out of the glass. So smokey (mesquite?) floral and feral. The fruit is so incredibly concentrated it's almost alive in the mouth. It is super deep with layers and layers of fruit and earth. It's one of those wines that has the power of a mailed fist but at the same time is balanced and not alcoholic or out of kilter in any way. Imagine great Gevrey or even Romanee St Vivant. It has my favorite type of tannins, the late breaking kind. The tannins in La Brocarde are remarkable. The spread so evenly across the palate. So sweet, so juicy. There is amazing purity and freshness. While there is new wood, it will absorb completely with time and is in no way intrusive at this stage. The combo of insane fruit, excessive pure minerality and sweet wood is just incredible. I'd hold off for 10 years. Billon is one of my favorite winemakers in my book but the wines need age! But the wait will be worth it.
Everyone loves Jamet, myself included. And comparing Billon and Jamet is like comparing Picasso and Dali. They are both great but very different. Jamet is more about subtle tapenade overtones and Billon is much more powerful. But they are both great wines and in my opinion, on the same qualitative level. For some reason, Billon has not caught on in the states. But that is changing and these wines are going to cost much more.
Below is John Livingstone Learmouth's 4.5 star review. As almost as good as it gets.
2013 (****)*
quite a bold red, legs visible. This has a very Brune style air - smoke, graphite, cordite, chocolate. A real mineral factor is high on its agenda, also a wee note of herbes de Provence. The palate expresses through refined red fruits, with smoky sidekick tannins, a touch of griottes (soaked cherries) in the fruit. The length is good. This has stylish potential, is serious. It grips tight on the finish. This is real rock force wine, a Smoking Joe here, crunchy times. There is an STGT heart to it. Its oak will absorb. 13°. Bottled Dec 2015. From late 2018. 2032-34 Apr 2016 Previously Jan 2015 ***(*) (casks) dark colour. Licorice, oak, tar, blueberry fruit are mixed together on the nose, a note of smoked bacon, varnish. The bouquet will be pretty generous in time. The palate starts openly, dark, prune style fruit at the helm. The tannins are supple, so it ends roundly, with a slight sweetness from the oak. It is perfectly comfortable in its skin, a really steady Côte-Rôtie that offers pleasurable drinking in the future. 13°. 2,000 b. JLL
My visit this past March with Christophe Billon was a continuation of my visit with him last March. It may sound confusing but it makes perfect sense. The 2015 Cote Roties that Christophe made are masterpieces. They eclipse his brilliant 2010s, the first vintage I sold and the first Cote-Rotie I ever sold at Fass Selections. I just drank my last bottle of the 2010 Les Elotins and it was a gorgeous bottle of wine and completely in the zone. They will age much longer but I will admit 2015 just crushes 2010. There is just more of everything in 2015. While 2010 is classic and compact 2015 is classic and compact AND has depths like no other vintage I've ever come across. This is a bottomless well type of vintage. The depth is astounding and it is presented with stupefying framing acidity so it has that much more impact. The sweet spot is Cote -Rotie I believe as well. My tastings at Barge and Billon were massive highlights of my last trip. Two years ago when I first tasted Billon's wines out of barrels I was stunned how great and drinkable already the young 15's were. One could have bottled them up and drank them that night they were so giving at a young age. I was very excited to taste them a year later this past March to see if they lived up to my initial impression. They did and more! They got better. Deeper, more structured and just plain ridiculous. The depth really showed this March versus the ridiculous levels of baby fat fruit that showed so well 2 years ago. The fruit has still there yet it was buffered by strong structure. Today I've got two of his stunning 2015 Cote Roties. Both are limited. Both are stunning. Both have scored very high scores from Jeb Dunnuck, formerly of The Wine Advocate.
Up next is the 2015 Christophe Billon Cote Rotie "Les Elotins" which can be had for $42.99 per bottle on a 4-pack. Jeb Dunnuck gave it 93-95 points. That's a value if I ever saw one. The wine is jaw dropping. The nose has huge minerals and huge fruit. So much black and red succulent fruits. Deep spice. What a nose. So many levels to the nose. Wafting aromas. As Christophe took each sample from the barrels he was smiling confidently as he knew he had gold. There is also a honeycomb/waffle component that is utterly compelling. The palate is just an experience. So rich and so ripe yet buffered by the most insane acid and freshness. You cannot believe how fresh, dark and big this is. But, above all, Cote Rotie is a wine of finesse and this has it in spades. The fruit is of the tiny berry style and just explodes in ones mouth. Stunning. So complex. So long and so much structure. This is a 20 year wine. It is 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier. Some is from Le Goutay, and also notable Combard where Gilles Barge makes a cuvée as well. This is all Cote Brune and as a result the wines are more structured and intense and also will age beautifully, but also needs that time. Below is JLL's review. as for some reason, Jeb's review on the Wine Advocate site is for the La Brocarde. This is limited.
2015 **** (*), (casks)
full, dark red. The bouquet gives a perfumed, violets air above its black berry fruit, is a full, harmonious start. The palate bears savoury content, with a juicy welling up on the second half, with enjoyable blackberry fruit at its centre. The finish is also well juiced, with fine tannin present. This is an accurate vintage 2015, sensuous Rôtie, with good detail and an unforced style. 13.5°. 6,000 b. €21. From mid-2018. 2032-34 Oct 2016 Previously Apr 2016 **** two parts tasted 1) 2-year 228-litre cask, southern zone from own vineyards on Le Goutay, Combard, 60% of the wine ***(*) shiny dark red robe. The nose has an elegant roundness, gives a raspberry, coulis style aroma, has a gentle depth. The palate gives a precise run of red berry fruit, clear tannins adding late breeze; there is a show of oak, too. This builds depth on the finish, is a crystalline wine. From 2020. 2032-33 2) 2 year 228-litre cask, rented vineyards on Les Moutonnes & Côte Baudin, 40% of the wine **** shiny dark red. The nose is beau, gives raspberry with a comfortable depth. It is charming, fine, shows light perfume. The palate holds joli, suave fruit, no hurry about it. It runs with freshness, cool tannins present. It goes long, with detail above all. This is notably fine, a wine that will require patience, has a beau Burgundian manner. From 2021. 2033-34 Apr 2016, JLL
2013 Maryline & Christophe Billon Cote-Rotie "La Brocarde" - $62.99 ($179.97 3-pack)
2015 Maryline & Christophe Billon Cote-Rotie "Les Elotins" - $44.99 ($171.96 4-pack)
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