Thursday, February 27, 2020

Two Exercises in the Apogee of Fruit Clarity from the Boy Genius of Baden - Zeiresein's Disciple Max Geitlinger

The Simplicity is the Complexity
 - 2 of the Most Crystalline Instantiations of Fruit We've Sold
 - From One of the Top Young Winemakers in Europe

2018 Max Geitlinger "Maxxle"
- Only 1,000 Bottles Made
- Sick Nose. Clean with Unreal Depth
- Intense Minerality and Lanolin
- Spiced Apple
- Palate is a Joy
- Grapefruit and Some Apricot with Terrific Freshness
- Driving, Energetic and Just Invigorating
- Great Concentration

2017 Max Geitlinger "Rosie"
- Very Allocated
- So Different, Unique and Delicious
- Insane Limestone Aromatics
- Watermelon, Cherry, Citrus Skin, Spice
- Insane Flowers 
- Best German Rose Not Named Enderle & Moll

Most of the Fass Selections offers involve wines that are elegant and complex. Not to sound too snobby, but we try to be the thinking person's retailer. We want to sell wines that you can really sit with around a table and analyze and discuss. This is even true for most of our less expensive wines. The Rosso di Montalcinos, the Barberas, the Bourgogne Rouges, the village trockens. Yes, they are delicious but there is also complexity.

Today's wines are almost a thought experiment.  What if one of the most brilliant young winemakers in Europe focused on making wines that exemplified and displayed the naked essence of fruit?  These wines were selected and vinified to do this. There will be no notes about the secondary flavors of dried leaves and tar. In a sense, the secondary flavors ARE the fruit. The complexity in the wines is that the fruit is so crystalline you taste various aspects of the fruit like never before, unhindered as it is.  It's almost a meta wine geek act of simplicity.  The simplicity is, in itself, the complexity.

Max Geitlinger
Max Geitlinger is a genius and we are only at the beginning of his genius window. Mark my words he will be a top player in Germany within the 5 years. Max is so versatile. He can make age-worthy
Grand Cru level Pinot Noir like his "Maximal" Pinot Noir we sold earlier this year,, and he can also make Muller Thurgau that has me thinking what Muller Thurgau is and can be expected from it with his "Maximal" Muller Thurgau. There's also gorgeously refined Sekt. There's a Sauvignon Blanc that's a cross between 70% Graves white, 20% Orange Wine and 10% Sauvignon Blanc character. It's unreal. There is nothing he can't do and what is important to know is Max thinks about wine really in his own way. Yes, the wines are made in Ziereisen's cellar and Hanspeter has influenced him but Max has his own voice. Unlike any other voice in Germany as I've gotten to know the wines. They are elegant, complex and always always delicious. I've gotten incredible feedback from long time wine drinkers who are blown away. That's because even if you're a long time wine drinker Max offer's something new. Today I've got two wines of Max's and because of the quirks of working with small production winemakers nobody else would bring in (especially from Germany) one I have less of than the other. I'm not gonna lie both of them are stunning and terrific values. Even with the tariffs.

I'll start with just an amazing wine for the genre of what it is. White German Glou Glou. The 2018 Max Geitlinger "Maxxle" for $24.99 a bottle on a 4-pack is 100% Müller Thürgau bottled directly after fermentation. Lots of yeast in this bad boy but it's one of the most dynamic, energetic, delicious inexpensive whites we've ever sold. The wine is just so delicious. I don't know how Max makes his wines so delicious as that's all one comments on when one is rapidly depleting this bottle. It's like so good you drink it like Gatorade after sweating on the basketball court for 30 minutes. Only 1,000 bottles made. Yes. Allocated German Glou Glou is here.

Sick nose. Clean with unreal depth, also some intense minerality and lanolin. Spiced apple. So clean and really jumps out of the glass but has serious depth and is almost meditative. But you don't smell it much because of the deliciousness of the palate.

Palate is a joy. Full of grapefruit and some apricot with terrific freshness. Great  sap and purity. Driving, energetic and just invigorating. Long. Super juicy and supremely balanced. This is a really great knock back summer white. Great concentration. This is like the platonic ideal of a quaffer. Drink this while cooking. Drink with the appetizer. Then the next day, and yes I don't know why any was left the next day, it was divine.

Next up is allocated. And it's Net pricing. I'm not gonna lie either. It's the best German roseI've had that's not Enderle & Moll. The 2017 Max Geitlinger "Rosie" for $26.99 NET is just an amazing bottle of Rose that also is ridiculously delicious. It's made from extra picked grapes Max tells me. It's mostly Pinot Noir but there is also a little Merlot. Yes that's right which is likely what makes this devastatingly delicious. 3 day extraction. Then 12 months in old 500 liter oak barrel. The wine is stunning. LOOK at that color to the left. It's also so different, unique and delicious as the smell of limestone is unreal. Fresh nose of watermelon, cherry, citrus skin, spice and just so many layers. Insane flowers and just so so good. Wow. Truly a wow nose.

Palate is so elegant, juicy and sweet. Amazing purity and freshness. Incredibly vivid fruit and so utterly drinkable and delicious. This wine is a problem it's so good. Amazing detail to the palate and superb balance. Really great. Smells like the Spätburgunder bottling diffused. Which is for me the best type of Rose.

On day 2 the nose has lanolin, flowers and minerals. Big deep nose. Clean and screams quaff me. Palate is fresh and energetic, with great texture and purity. So clean. So drinkable. So juicy. So delicious. I don't claim many roses are special but this is a special rose.

2018 Max Geitlinger Maxxle - $26.99 ($99.96 4-pack) 
(*Including Tariff of $2.11)

2017 Max Geitlinger "Rosie" - $26.99 NET 
(*Including Tariff of $2.11)

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